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Marty_d

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Everything posted by Marty_d

  1. Marty_d
    It'd be much less work for the cabin crew too. Might be a problem if you need to get everyone off the plane in an emergency though.
  2. Marty_d
    The thing is, urgent face to face meetings just aren't as vital these days, so I'm not sure how the business case for passenger hypersonic stacks up. Companies could invest the cost of one return flight into dedicated high resolution VR meeting rooms and not have to travel at all. As for holiday travellers, yes it's boring to spend 27 hours getting to Europe, but it's a lot more gentle on the body than 6g.
  3. Marty_d
    If Ryanair are running it, you'll be able to purchase less G for your seat.
  4. Marty_d
    I'm building my 701 with a header tank, but will be plumbing the return line to one of the wing tanks. This should avoid that issue and I believe Savannah specify return to the wing tank rather than to header, is that correct Bob?
  5. Marty_d
    Thanks everyone - think I've got it sorted now. Did some more holding in position, and yes it's best with the oil cooler at the front and the radiator parallel with the front exhaust runs but offset from centre to avoid the exhausts. Pics below show - oil cooler is dark, radiator in aluminium colour. That's not exact position but close. I'll have to jiggle it precisely then I can draw up the mounting brackets required. Luckily there's the M10 holes either side of the gearbox for the oil cooler (which only mounts at the top - no provision at bottom for any attachment), and the front and rear holes at the bottom of the engine for the radiator. The rear holes are used for the engine mount, but if I put an aluminium spacer inside the engine mount recess then a longer bolt can also attach the radiator bracket on the outside.
  6. Marty_d
    That's not a bad idea Bob - move it back a bit under the exhausts and put the oil cooler up front. Thanks!
  7. Marty_d
    Well I would, OK, but imagine the weight of the extra water and hose...
  8. Marty_d
    Hey folks, Looking for some advice on the placement of my radiator. It seems like the cowl I've made possibly could have used a bit more room at the front end. The cowl slopes backwards which I guess may be more aerodynamic but doesn't leave much room in front of the engine and especially the exhaust pipes from the front 2 cylinders. It looks like I have 3 choices: 1. Mount the radiator at an angle to the starboard side of centre so the port outlet (upper) is between the oil filter and the exhaust tubing: 2. Mount the radiator at an angle to the port side of centre so the port outlet is outboard of the exhaust tubing: 3. Redesign the entire front of the cowling so it's squarer, protrudes out at the front more to allow the radiator to sit more vertically. I really don't want to do option 3 because (a) I'm sick of fibreglassing and (b) I'm out of carbon fibre, but that depends on clearances, tolerances and allowable angles for radiators. Is there any advice on how far hoses should be from exhaust outlets, how far radiator tanks should be from the cowling, and what angles radiators can be mounted at? Thank you! Cheers, Marty
  9. Marty_d
    That looks great Mark. Just sewn to shape and pulled over I reckon. If there's a zip or Velcro it'd be good for taking off and washing after turbulence... or engine failure!
  10. Marty_d
    That's brilliant. I'll probably be upholstering mine myself, I often wonder how they get the fabric tight on the foam when it's a concave area, like the seat area above. Maybe it's spray glued or something? Or is it just sewed that way?
  11. Marty_d
    Ian, I'd like to say thank you for providing this excellent site. The amount of help I've had with my build from being on here, not to mention the great discussions over on Social Australia - it's just brilliant. As far as improvements, I can't think of any. It works really well, in fact I often wonder why other sites aren't as intuitive as this. Thanks again.
  12. Marty_d
    After a couple of false starts I installed the PTT on the dildo, sorry, stick grip. Tried insetting a smaller aluminium disk into the wood but it didn't work too well, so went with fully covering the end. I think it works.
  13. Marty_d
    If you're after flat sheet polycarbonate then any local plastic manufacturer should have it.
  14. Marty_d
    https://www.abc.net.au/news/science/2023-05-03/catl-announces-battery-to-make-electric-aviation-possible/102289310
  15. Marty_d
    Oh sorry, I meant the actual hose. Yes the orifice is small but wondering what size line you run - 1/4 inch?
  16. Marty_d
    Oil pressure gauge on mine is electric from the sender on the motor. Fuel pressure is still a pipe to the gauge though. @IBob, what size is the tube going from the reduced orifice to the fuel pressure gauge?
  17. Marty_d
    I put metal fuel line in mine, bought a little beading tool from Aeroflow - AF98-2020 - PIPE BEADING TOOL SUIT 3/8" That allows you to make your own barbs at the end of the line, then hose clamp regular fuel line to it.
  18. Marty_d
    A Tasmanian thought that he could carve a joystick grip out of wood Said his wife with a laugh "If YOUR joystick was half As big as that one, it might be quite good!"
  19. Marty_d
    Why couldn't Westland think of a different name, given they'd already built a Whirlwind?
  20. Marty_d
    Again I have to thank Peter, he spent most of Saturday working on my wiring. At the end of the day most of the instruments were connected, and I got to turn the ignition switch and see the trim indicator, volt meter and hour meter on the tacho (0.0) light up. Then one more turn and the Rotax turned over (very briefly!) Today I spent a few hours making a wooden grip for the Y-stick (trouble is, now I'll have to make another one!) I used a bit of scrap hardwood I found in the shed, no idea what it is but I think it'll have a nice reddish shade when I varnish it. Fits my hand, but makes my wife laugh every time she sees it, for some reason...
  21. Marty_d
    Neither now thanks Danny - I have bought an Ebay radiator, looks ok. And someone gave me an oil cooler. So I have both - just not the fittings on the oil cooler. Hi Glen, oil can is the original Rotax (came new with the engine, when the flying school swapped out the Rotax they didn't change fitted items such as muffler and oil can, so gave me the new ones with the 2nd hand motor). It's got 2 90 degree barb fittings with rotating female nut attached (very similar to the one on the right in the photo above) which pulls them down onto the can fittings. Hi Skippy, the photo is out of the CH701 engine installation instructions, I've just got the same oil cooler without the fittings. I'd be interested in buying your spare fittings, will PM you. Thanks!
  22. Marty_d
    Thanks Skippy! Are they the ones with the male thread on the outside that screw into the top of the oil cooler fittings - circled in pic below?
  23. Marty_d
    Thanks Danny, hopefully the original will do the job.
  24. Marty_d
    I need to put another tap on the fuel line. I have a tap for each wing tank, but they're above the header tank which holds 7 litres. If there was an engine bay fire I wouldn't want fuel continuing to be provided.
  25. Marty_d
    If my joystick is in danger of burning, I've got bigger problems than what the grip is made of...
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