Kyle Communications

Gnome definatly check the breathers for the tank caps too

Gnome if you do have a breather only pipe in the top of the header tank then it can only be that you have a low loop in your fuel hose. It basically has to run uphill at some stage to get from the tank to the header tank...this is the laws of physics. Every liquid will run down hill....so if it doesnt there must be some wierdo blockage. I did have a issue in the first few months of my aircraft that there was a intermittant blockage that was draining the carb bowls at high power. I finally found that a piece of plastic had come off the inside of the tank it was not a shaving it was a flat flake and it got lodged in the bend of the alu tubing that ran under the floor and upo to the firewall and it slowed the flow to my gascolator. It would be hard to imagine both tank feeds to have something like that. There must be a simple answer to the issue. I would have to look through my original XL build blog on here to find the pictures of my header feed system.... oh just had a thought before finishing this post...are the breathers on you tank caps working?...this could also be a issue if they are not doing their job or restricted. I got rid of the silly 3mm tubes from the fuel caps through the wings and used 6mm alu tubing in the tank caps. You will find a post on my blog why I did this...I couldnt access a full tank of fuel due to a insect getting into the 3mm breather tube

Does your header tank have a breather at the top?...The std Sav setup is wrong so you can get a vapour like lock. I only have all tanks feed into one pipe at the top of the header tank..the other entry at the top I do NOT connect to the plumbing system it goes to the top of one of the tank sides to act as a breather/normalizer so flow will alwys happen

45 to 50 bucks at most sites like Amazon or Temu or Aliexpress. Molex can be 50 to 600 they are outrageous https://www.amazon.com.au/GIANNEER-Impression-Crimping-18-14AWG-Terminals/dp/B0BYZJ5FDV/ref=sr_1_7?adgrpid=86956646837&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.H3OszCcePDlzoloPsiIBNWgG9XVHbzUa2lU4IRQ9D8Mb-beE-e8BoUwIxJeNHBzyP6k_O3vdVXOjJYUFHOfXyixuGUy75_v4h96sd75tq2salDD6uKMlqYrCCf-K0y-XCSRMPm6M6-GCH7Jsc02uCNlJ1VCnsnB6I1s2klpQbgMCIgDElQudK9FBoXxCXZjh1R7yF7GJTaz4JflE1eNrtOKqhxuC5msUZXU4ng_o4Evz6i0T6FQlZNPVXG_-4X6rWEaLaQ76JF9FZenDmYwSv4b1E9_aMFD0di3ff0zxt-k.pobmE3auPM4uE7rEi21XaAf2La4JBlgvChOrLMFIXv0&dib_tag=se&gad_source=1&hvadid=591203968948&hvdev=c&hvexpln=0&hvlocphy=9069009&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=2427066532002779419--&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2427066532002779419&hvtargid=kwd-3675538365&hydadcr=2608_359735&keywords=deutsch+crimping+tool&mcid=c01c3e1d8939347a9dfed198fa1b1987&qid=1791356108&sr=8-7

The crimp tool for them is quite cheap. Certainly far cheaper than anything for a Molex connector.

I use all Deutsch connectors for all connections where possible in my aircraft. Proven for good connections in earthmoving equipment and high end machinery. I first came across them more than 2 decades ago when I started doing all of Hastings Deering (Catepillar) work for radio and electronic equipment. The standard was Deutsch. I have been using them ever since. You cant beat them

That is what I posted before in a previous post. That would be the best way to do it the issue though is you will need to manufacture double the amount of new bushes and also be very accurate on their length as you will still need a washer between the hanger bracket and the flaperon bracket

I used to use a silicone grease but I actually started using white lithium grease about 5 or 6 years ago. I think its better Mark

I have the nut on the bush side on all mine but the the head of the bolt is on the inner flaperon L bracket but on the outer portion the head is on the hanger bracket. I will confirm the operation tomnorrow when I get to the hangar

The white grease is Lithium grease. I used to use a silicone grease years ago but now I have swapped to the Lithium. Yes it seems now that is exactly opposite to the original way. So who knows which way is correct. So long as the bush doesnt tun inside the alu would make the most sense. The whole idea for a bush is to have the bolt rotate inside the bush and not the bush rotate on a surface that is loaded. The ideal would be to have a fixed bush pressed into the wing hanger bracket and another bush fixed into the flaperon bracket. A washer separator like they have where the 2 smaller parts of the bush meet. This would make more sense to me I hope the Ventura manual is better than any of the Savannah manuals ' Mark

Yes in that thread the drawing Ibob did is how I have always done mine . On my original build and this rebuild as well. John Gilpin got larger teflon bushes made but you had to ream out the hanger brackets and also the flaperon L angle mounts

The bolt will always need to have the bush rotate around it. Or the bush rotating around the bolt. You cant have the bush rotating through both alu parts otherwise what would be the point of having a bush you could just have a bolt through the hole The manual for the Savannah has always been terrible

Thats interesting...that arrangement is different in my manual the drawing show the bolt head on the head of the bush. Yet I only have the photo in my manual the english one and from around 2011 and it appears to show the nut on the bush head. Either was it doesnt matter. What ever part thee head of the bush is on that is the part the bush needs to NOT move in so really needs to be loctited if its not a press fit

yes the bush is fixed and it rotates around the bolt. What most have done from what I have seen is they tighten the bolt too much so what happens is it locks into the bush and the bush rotates in the aluminium...thats not good. It wears out the bush and the hangar bracket. It con only be the bush that rotates around the bolt...just like a door hinge Think of it this way. The bush is locked into the hanger bracket and must be fixed. the bolt head is always on the L shaped alu that is connected to the ailerons and it doesnt rotate so it must turn inside the bush when the aileron moves. If you look at the manual the bush head is always on the other side of the hangar bracket and the castellated nut is on the bigger flange of the bush. That nut needs to rotate on the head flange of that bush. When I go to the hangar next I will see if I can do a video to explain it and show it Mark

The issue in this case is the particular aircraft was built by a couple of L2 apparantly. The build quality was not very good at all. So they back then can sign off on the aircraft. Now you need a L4 to sign off. Any L4 doing a inspection would...or should go over all the aircraft and bolts etc. Even look inside the wings with a camera etc. The inspections are AP inspections are required I believe when building a Experimental aircraft under SAAA /GA rego although again you can get a AP to do it at the end...for a price of course its usually a couple of grand for a AP to do it after a build Mark