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Posted (edited)

So a few months ago I was doing a lot of touch n gos on a damp grass strip, so of course got quite a bit of crap under the wings etc. I did a rough spot clean back then but last weekend I decided to give him a proper bath. Once a year whether he needs it or not 😄

 

Well, maybe he needs it more than once a year because when you're washing a plane, you are looking at parts of the plane you don't often look at, or at different angles for things you see all the time.

 

I found three loose bolts on my radiator 😲

 

I know why, and it wasn't because of me. I won't go into that. But whether it's someone's elses fault or not, the buck stops with the pilot. 

 

I had an instructor who got me in the habit of checking random things you may not look at in your 'standard' walk around. I haven't actually picked up anything yet on my plane  doing that (although I did find something on the last hire plane i flew), but I also do it with work vehicles, which have check lists. Sure enough, looking at random things NOT on that list meant I've found a number of faults most other drivers wouldn't notice.

 

But back to the plane. Most of my random checks are INSIDE the engine bay. These bolts are outside the bay. And I haven't done many random checks of the airframe in general.

 

So I'm going to step up those RBTs (random bolt tests 😄 )

Edited by danny_galaga
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Posted

My DI includes light push each side of radiator and oil cooler checking for movement also grab and give a shake to the main gear legs and other things.

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Posted

My test pilot grabbed the cowl through the front airholes and checked it for movement. That was added to my own walkround......

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Posted
2 hours ago, IBob said:

My test pilot grabbed the cowl through the front airholes and checked it for movement. That was added to my own walkround......

I thought all pre-flight check lists included cowl security, along with fairings, pitot, antenna, etc. I even do a wing & empennage waggle, to check for any movement/sound.😈

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Posted

Do forget the most important check-

 

Is the pilot in the right frame of mind and healthy on the day?

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Posted

Water is something that my planes never see! I use furniture polish after every flight, I clean the underbellies front to back, I like slippery airframes👍

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Posted
14 hours ago, skippydiesel said:

I thought all pre-flight check lists included cowl security, along with fairings, pitot, antenna, etc. I even do a wing & empennage waggle, to check for any movement/sound.😈

They do.

Posted

There has been more than one aircraft crash caused by an improperly secured cowling or fairing, and even canopies, detaching after takeoff. Some of those crashes have been fatal.

 

https://www.atsb.gov.au/media/news-items/2014/open-canopy-leads-to-fatal-takeoff

 

https://www.atsb.gov.au/media/news-items/2025/flapping-cowling-door-likely-distracted-pilot-prior-jandakot-chipmunk-accident

 

 

Posted
21 hours ago, onetrack said:

There has been more than one aircraft crash caused by an improperly secured cowling or fairing, and even canopies, detaching after takeoff. Some of those crashes have been fatal.

 

https://www.atsb.gov.au/media/news-items/2014/open-canopy-leads-to-fatal-takeoff

 

https://www.atsb.gov.au/media/news-items/2025/flapping-cowling-door-likely-distracted-pilot-prior-jandakot-chipmunk-accident

 

 

Unfortunately the cause of crashes following canopy or door opening in flight is pilots not continuing to fly the aircraft. In nearly all cases the aircraft is perfectly capable of continuing flight. There will be a big startle factor and maybe an unusual stick position and force required to keep control. There are many reports available on line from surviving pilots of RV, Lancair, Beech bonanza and baron etc so one can get an idea of what to expect from a certain aircraft type.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Yesterday I was going  over my recently acquired aircraft which has a 618 Rotax 100 hours TT on it, but the alloy finish looks like it’s lived in the bottom of the ocean?

So, looking for ideas to clean it up? Maybe coat it with a heat proof clear coat or something? 
Any ideas please?

Posted

extreme corrosion on just alloy engine parts is typically an engine cleaner or degreaser that has not been removed completely and has continued to react with the surface post clean.

 

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Posted

Some of those degreasers are full OF CAUSTIC and salt air will cause That type of corrosion as well. Clean it off with a  fine brass wire brush and etch Prime it. There are also approved Aluminium surface Preparations for Aircraft use Soap and hot water are OK for Cleaning the engine. If there's any oil around use Kerosene which Hoses OFF with water OK. When dry, a light Mist with WD can Help reduce corrosion and make things easier to Undo.  Nev

Posted

my engine coating is called inox.  i spray my boat motors with it and anything else i want to keep corrosion off.

great product. have you ever seen a rusty sheep.

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Posted
2 hours ago, jackc said:

Yesterday I was going  over my recently acquired aircraft which has a 618 Rotax 100 hours TT on it, but the alloy finish looks like it’s lived in the bottom of the ocean?

So, looking for ideas to clean it up? Maybe coat it with a heat proof clear coat or something? 
Any ideas please?

ACF50 is good, have a read of spec sheet and its proven uses.  Maybe clean all with it and then reassess the airframe.

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Posted (edited)
58 minutes ago, BrendAn said:

my engine coating is called inox.  i spray my boat motors with it and anything else i want to keep corrosion off.

great product. have you ever seen a rusty sheep.

Some spray products will harden and deteriorate the wiring loom insulation plastic; which is no good.  With ACF50 that won't occur and its suitable for the pin connector surfaces to guard against corrosion; Please read the product data and usages in aviation sheet before using; its  well worth the purchase and good for the Rotax 912 engine body to keep things corrosion free.   Its good and for certain applications better than 'Corrosion X'. 

Edited by Blueadventures
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Posted
20 minutes ago, Blueadventures said:

Some spray products will harden and deteriorate the wiring loom insulation plastic; which is no good.  With ACF50 that won't occur and its suitable for the pin connector surfaces to guard against corrosion; Please read the product data and usages in aviation sheet before using; its  well worth the purchase and good for the Rotax 912 engine body to keep things corrosion free.   Its good and for certain applications better than 'Corrosion X'. 

sounds like good stuff.   i am pretty sure lanolin is safe and you can use it in a pump bottle if you think aerosol is a problem.  

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Posted

A weak solution of phosphoric acid works good on cleaning up aluminium alloy. Mag wheel cleaners usually contain a mild solution of phosphoric acid.

 

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Posted (edited)

But... do not let some lubricants get between two surfaces like sheets of aluminium / skins and ribs etc because the reduction in friction may cause the two surfaces to start moving slightly and wear... Many fastening methods rely on the friction  between the two surfaces to stay put..... I know this from radio antenna hardware, and have seen some examples on aircraft skins.

Edited by RFguy
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Posted

"......do not let some lubricants get between two surfaces like sheets of aluminium / skins and ribs etc because the reduction in friction may cause the two surfaces to start moving slightly and wear...?

 

Interesting observation.

 

Seems to me that most, if not all, spray on corrosion inhibitors, specifically for aviation and others used, have lubricating qualities. Some even claim to benefit from good penetrating /wicking ability.

 

I got all excited about applying some sort of corrosion inhibiter to my Sonex , before its first flight. Didn't do it, largely as a result of this Forums advice😈

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Posted

It's a bit of a trap using a penetrant/ Lubricant with rivetted Joins/ laps. I'm 100% with RF Guy There. Those Joints should Be Bonded at assembly for Longer life and strength . The Fokker F 27  was built under Licence in the USA By Fairchild and had wing failures. Something Not experienced by the Redux bonded Dutch Built versions. SALT environment and Using  a corrosive Paint stripper is a problem also with Lap joints. Keep your plane Hangared and away from the Beach. Nev

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Posted

My engine had sat idle in Queensland for 12 years. The outside of the engine looked terrible along with the engine side of the firewall. I brushed what I could of the white corrosion with a little brush like a tooth brush and sprayed everything under in the engine bay with a liberal coating of ACF-50. Once the engine had run up to operating temperature a couple of times all signs of corrosion have gone. Now it just looks like a 20 year old engine because that's what it is.

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