IBob

Nev, I think what you may be missing is that the washers fit over the bush. Bear in mind also that the wing and aileron hangers (is that the right term) will likely have a coating of paint, so accurate assembly by bush length is not possible: some means of adjustment other than bush length is necessary. And yes, it's an imperfect arrangement, but properly set up it seems to do the job and last well on what is a now a very large number of aircraft.

Nev, If you had the opportunity to study the actual assembly, you would see that tightening it would effectively clamp the wing and aileron fitting together. The result would be like bolting the two tightly together, with the pivot unable to move freely.

My manual is Issue 1/Rev.00 1st Feb 2010 for this assembly. It says to use: 1 bolt AN3-05, inserted outer to inner, by which I think they mean inserted with the bolt head outboard. 1 washer AN4 between the wing attachment and the aileron attachment. 1 bush SC210, inserted from inner to outer, by which I think they mean inserted with the bush flange inboard (so bolt and bush are inserted from opposite directions). 1 castle nut and cotter pin. If this setup is not adequately tightened , then it will tilt under load, resulting in wear to the bush and holes. I think the correct method of tightening (regardless of how many washers etc) is as posted above by Lukeh (7.3 Control Surface Hinges). I tightened mine in a similar fashion, first nipping them up tight, then backing the nut off one castle. I then checked that I could rotate the bolt by hand, but without excessive play. And I rechecked that at service intervals.

PS Marty if that is a Sav brake system, be sure to use mineral based fluid, as the other stuff eats all the seals.

Marty, as I recall there was a little oddity in fitting the tubes, in that there was no real 'feel' to indicate when tight enough. The way it works is that the tube is pushed into place, then as the fitting is tightened it deforms the tube end into an olive. However, if you continue tightening, it then greatly thins and maybe separates that olive. To avoid this, I first practised on a spare bit of pipe to work out how many tightening turns were required.

Gosh.

Good to hear about Reg: I think I was the last NZ kit bought through him before we got our own agent. Reg was great to deal with, and certainly on those occasions when I needed his expertise. FWIW I bought August 2015, at which point the basic S kit in Australia was A$35K incl tax..........

Hi Skippy, as noted by several above, and also in the 912 manuals, the standard Rotax VDO and 4-20ma sensors are not interchangeable, due to different thread sizes. As for who might supply an alternative 4-20mA sensor, the answer is any one of many manufacturers of pressure transducers. And 0-10bar is one of the standard sizes. However there is a very big 'but': quality and associated price vary greatly. The Rotax transducer operates in a fairly hostile environment, with heat, engine vibration, perhaps also pulsing from the oil pump. And in my experience (I have fitted hundreds in industrial refrigeration settings) the only way to find if a given brand will prove durable in that sort of application is to try it. If my 912 had a VDO unit, I would be inclined to live with it, while also keeping an eye on it. If it had the later 4-20mA unit, I would expect it to be trouble free, as Rotax seem to have gone to some trouble to arrive at a durable solution.

Yes. For oil pressure Rotax shifted from the VDO type, which is a voltage output, to one which gives a 4-20mA current output. (4-20 also being a very common industrial standard for various types of sensor). So the instrumentation has to match which type you have. The VDO type units do seem to fail fairly regularly. The 4-20mA units are proving more reliable.

That's fine for setting, KG. My point was it's hard to check the gap with a regular steel gauge, as it sticks to the magnet and feels like a snug fit regardless.

Have you checked the ignition coil gaps? I have seen that make a big difference on a Rotax that had poor starting. Needs to be checked with a non-ferrous gauge, either that or no-go for next gauge size up, as regular feeler gauges stick to the magnet, feels like snug fit even if it's not.

Maybe ask JG at Stolspeed if anyone has put VGs on a 601HDS?

Absolutely. I'm one of those. And while I'm glad I did the build...one of life's special experiences...my energies went into that instead of flying. Go flying, Baz!

But you're only working two of those at any time?

Blueadventures, the standard keyswitch setup in the Savannah does two things: 1. Turned to On, it provides power to the various instrumentation.* 2. Turned further, it also operates the starter solenoid, with the usual spring return to position 1. *I opted to fit a separate switch for power to radio and transponder, allowing me to switch them on after engine start, and off before shutdown.