Jump to content

Marty_d

First Class Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    4,939

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    71

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Marty_d

  1. Marty_d
    I like what Gyro Girl wears in the cockpit, but to be honest, it looks far better on her than it would on me.
  2. Marty_d
    Bloody hell this thing has lost my started response twice. @cherk - you're right - they're Jeep. @facthunter - no choice, that's the design. Threaded rods go from rudder pedals to posts on noseleg so have to move vertically for suspension, forward and back for steering, horizontally (slightly) for lock to lock. @Thruster88 - I've only seen that orange stuff go up to 30mm. Not big enough. @skippydiesel - All of the above. We use welding gloves ($7 from Bunnings) as oven mitts. My wife informs me that she could cut a pair apart and make them into cones. I could possibly put those on the engine side for fireproofing and the good looking rubber ones on the cabin side.
  3. Marty_d
    Thanks guys - then I realised that rubber boots like gear shift ones aren't actually fireproof. (Guess I could have the boots on the outside for looks, and inside do the welding glove trick!!)
  4. Marty_d
    Hi all, Thinking of boots for where the steering pushrods go thru the firewall. Some people have used rubber ones but that wouldn't do much in a fire situation. Other people have suggested using welding gloves with the rods going through one finger... any ideas for a good fireproof boot design? Thanks, Marty
  5. Marty_d
    I like that aluminium version. That's very schmick. Possibly a good candidate for polishing instead of painting.
  6. Marty_d
    Tell the truth, Peter, you're just jealous...
  7. Marty_d
    Trouble is "stall" to anyone but a pilot means your engine stopping because you're trying to start off in third (in a manual of course - remember them?) So perhaps not surprising they conflate the two.
  8. Marty_d
    Not an experienced criminal, there was plenty of footage (claw-age?) of the offender's face. If he's not careful he'll find himself up before a beak...
  9. Marty_d
    I used galv steel. The plans called for 0.018" (around .5 mm) but I think I went slightly thicker, just what was available at the time.
  10. Marty_d
    I've bitten the bullet and spent the money - on order are 3x Carlisle Turf Glide tyres & tubes, and a 70" Bolly 3 blade prop.
  11. Marty_d
    50 years old, bugger-all hair, big ears and still a baby... actually you may not be far off the mark Planey!
  12. Marty_d
    " The standard undercarriage is of tricycle configuration, though a conventional undercarriage is an option. " I think taildragger was "conventional" up until about 1950....
  13. Marty_d
    I bought black steel Allen drive dome head bolts, then sprayed the heads with a coat of clear paint to prevent rust. They turned out really well, nice gloss finish but unobtrusive against the carbon fibre pattern dash.
  14. Marty_d
    Tulip or not tulip - that is the question. Last night I cut out bits from the underside of my cowl to ensure the muffler has enough clearance. This is the first time both the muffler and cowl have been on the plane at the same time! So as you can see there's a fair chunk out of the starboard side where the exhaust pipe runs and a smaller hole for the other end of the muffler at the port side. I reckon the guy who made this cowl mould must have had a smaller muffler which fit inside the central channel. Obviously I need to run a thin strip of fibreglass or carbon around the edges after they're sanded. At that point, I was thinking about putting a formed lip around the holes, and at the rear opening, to encourage the venturi effect and suck the hot air out of the engine bay. What do you think - are they needed? Or just leave it open as is? Cheers, Marty
  15. Marty_d
    All the ones I recently put in were M4.
  16. Marty_d
    I decided not to go with the E-prop. They sound fantastic but are an extra $1000 and I just worry a little about how narrow they are, in terms of longevity and strength. I wanted to go with the Meglin but 4 month turnaround after you pay full price, and with what's going on with Russia I didn't want to risk it. So I'm back to Bolly and either their 66" or 70". Bolly say the 70" is better for STOL and the 66" for cruise - she'll never be a cruiser so I would prefer the 70".
  17. Marty_d
    Wagga Bike Tyres sell the Carlisles for $155, so Skyshop are charging a bit much. I've put a level on the wing mounting points and I could raise the nose another 20mm to get the aircraft perfectly level, plus if the Carlisles are 16" compared to my current 13" I'll gain another 1.5" (38mm) there. That makes it 58mm + my original 1040mm so 1098mm, which would make a 70" prop tip 209mm from the ground. That's still not ideal but the 701 plans state 1100mm and a lot of them would swing a 70" prop, so might just have to do it. Plus I have a spare nose fork which will fit the bigger tyre - bought it from Zenith as I couldn't get the right thickness aluminium in Aus at the time, then bought the undercarriage off a written-off Sav anyway. The Zenith fork is a lot wider than the Sav one and has a bit of extra length so I can lower the axle a bit.
  18. Marty_d
    That's very pretty. I like the British racing green fuse with silver wings & HT, spectacular scheme.
  19. Marty_d
    I would have thought that companies such as Wagga Bike Tyres would be in a bit of trouble advertising Carlisle Turf Glide in their LSA section, if there was anything but a miniscule chance of failing. Most companies are extremely risk averse when it comes to aviation, as I found out when trying to get someone to test my control cables.
  20. Marty_d
    I look at the wheel spats on that thing and wonder.... why?
  21. Marty_d
    Thanks Mike. I might pull a carby off and take it into Enzed. That way I'll get the right thread.
  22. Marty_d
    Can you get the banjo stuff aftermarket? I did contact Bert Flood about the fuel setup but they said it would be prohibitively expensive to get Rotax stuff. Even the compensator tube which is basically a bit of bent aluminium pipe is around $1,000. (I made one myself out of a piece of hard fuel line, with a ridge formed at each end to hold the short rubber hose each end).
  23. Marty_d
    Hi, I'm a bit confused about the fuel fitting to the carbs. 912/914 parts list shows part 941853 which is a double ended male thread, however in the Rotax Heavy Maintenance Manual it shows a banjo bolt going straight in and the original part crossed out. Anyone know what the inside thread size is? Is the banjo bolt system necessary or can it just be a barb to thread type fitting? Thanks, Marty
  24. Marty_d
    Hi, I have to confess my ignorance here, I have no idea what the numbers on tyres mean. I want to get a set of bigger tyres that fit the rims I have. I don't really want to spend a fortune doing it (I've seen 21" tyres advertised for almost $600 each). So below is a photo of my nosewheel - it has the numbers 15 x 6.00 - 6 on it. What does that mean? It's not 15 inches diameter, it's around 13 (unless I haven't pumped it up enough). If I want to get bigger tyres, eg 21", where's the best place to get them? Some forums in the Zenith site discuss bigger tyres for $30 each - golf cart? Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks, Marty
  25. Marty_d
    Always safer with a Trojan.
×
×
  • Create New...