IBob

I hadn't been following this thread, so only just came across this, and it really made me sit up: the reason being that I had a very near miss on takeoff last year with an aircraft making an overhead rejoin. The swiss cheese evolved as follows: We had both made radio calls, but were (evidently) not specifically looking out for each other. I was on takeoff, solo, and climbing steadily, was 700' AGL at the threshold. He crossed approx 200M beyond the threshold at approx 900', at which point I was between 770' and 879', closer to the latter as it appeared to me. It spoiled my day, and I'm sure it spoiled his. We were both very fortunate that is all it did. CAA here have since published a tutorial on overhead rejoins, designed evidently to educate, but containing no new information. It has the joining aircraft crossing the strip over the threshold at 1000' AGL. Had the other pilot done that in our event, we would have been fine BUT Note he was only a bit offset from the threshold...can easily happen Note, he was only a bit low...can easily happen. Note, I wasn't looking for him, or he for me: poor airmanship...but can happen. And there is your swiss cheese. Since that event, I am more attentive to radio calls from joining traffic, also careful to climb with good forward vision after takeoff, while looking out very carefully. And when rejoining myself, I do not aim to cross at the threshold: I aim to cross approx 1/3 back from there, as in the above diagram. I should very much like to see this last item introduced here NZ. But that seems very unlikely under the current administration, who have simply doubled down on a very old tradition.

Thinks: I could overtake one of those........)

Are you saying we're backward??????????????

I don't have the prop...or the manufacturer's spec. Presumably this is further in from the tip than the traditional 1/3 radius in?

How far in from the tip are you gauging the pitch? In my view, if setting pitch with a laser, you also need to be checking the (static) blade tracking, since any difference in blade tracking will (also) shift the laser dot on the floor.

Blueadventures, did you also check blade tracking?

Maybe take up skeet shooting????

Hi Dan, a minor disambiguation of model types, which may help with your enquiries. And put me straight by all means if I have this wrong: My understanding is that the Savannah models, chronologically, are: VG = the original, but with VGs, not slats. XL = ICP reworked the VG fuselage shape at the front, from the seatback forward. The cockpit is wider and roomier, the windscreen has more rake etc. S = ICP completed the fuselage rework by rounding the rear of the fuselage, from seatbacks back. I would have said your aircraft was an XL. However, in searching for a pattern for a cockpit cover you may (also) want to enquire about the S, as your cockpit area is identical to the S, apart from some very minor rounding of the fuselage above the seatback.

Great stuff, Marty. Is the cowl going inside or outside of the metalwork?

Astonishing arc as they leave at the end! I watched it several times, kept thinking I'd be really nervous that the red ground clamp he had on the cable could be knocked/pulled off during the procedure. Was the wrap he was putting on to stop the yoke thing from working it's way down the cables? If so, I'd say they are very much in need of some simpler quicker attachment.

You're way ahead of me there, Marty...........)

Belated thought: On the suggestion of another builder, I drilled holes for 4 clekos to hold the upper and lower cowl together while fitting and adjusting the Dzus fasteners. I believe this was to hold the two cowls in exactly the same position while drilling and fitting, so that all the fasteners were identically centered (since individual Dzus fasteners do allow some movement). This is the only time I have ever fitted them, so I have no feel for what difference that may have made.

By that, I meant initially mount the blades that way, then use your clinometer/laser/whatever to pitch them all the same before flying. I use a length of wood with a clamp on it to ensure each blade is brought round to exactly the same distance above the floor. And I use masking tape on the floor, and also on each blade where the laser is to be mounted: I measure in 222mm from each blade tip, using a sliding square set to that length, and mark that point with masking tape. Finally, a pleasing check that you have all the blades pitched the same: at certain lower sun angles and directions of flight, the sun reflects off the back of the blades. With all the blades pitched the same, there will be little or no shimmy in that reflection.

Marty, on the Bolly blades you will see a line left by the join in the molds. If you initially mount the blades with this line visible in the join between the front and back mounting plates, you will be very close and certainly close enough for test flights. Static WOT RPM is not the most helpful measure, but FWIW mine is approx 5200RPM.

Yep, I found the stick very imprecise. I can't remember the exact number, but on the Sav with a blade horizontal, each degree of pitch is about 20mm on the floor, so you really can set up very accurately....though you do also have to check tracking (any difference in how far forward/back each blade tip is), as that can throw this method out. I'm pretty comfortable with the way I do it; however I'm sure there are inclinometers now available that would do just as good a job.

Very nice, Marty: I've certainly been very happy with mine. I made a simple but effective laser pointer that hooks on a blade and projects onto the floor, used that to pitch all blades identical, have enjoyed super smooth running from day one.

Suddenly the snarly teeth and an eyeball each side of the nose looks.....very tame.........)

Bummer......(

I believe they were used for navigation training out of Booker airfield near High Wycombe in the UK where I grew up. We saw (and heard) them overhead pretty much daily in the '50s.

https://www.stuff.co.nz/business/128197697/air-traffic-controller-sacked-for-having-sex-at-work-wins-licence-back

Seems I'm more than a little out of touch......there is a whole load of this stuff, done by the same people.

All good. You'll also need something to strip the wire neatly and precisely: for the D sub pins, you're only taking about 4mm off. If you can find a well made version of this type, they are ideal: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/building-renovation/tools/hand-tools/pliers/listing/3524919310?bof=UX48xEQA I have the cheap knockoff version, and while I was able to adjust them to do the one job correctly, I wouldn't recommend them.

https://nz.element14.com/aim-cambridge/24-8643p/crimp-tool-d-sub-26-20-awg/dp/2357846?gclid=CjwKCAjwrfCRBhAXEiwAnkmKmR9Dghvc4buz01hKBXI1fSHAO_UaJX5kOL645VXhEovkisdvGX8ExBoCtJ8QAvD_BwE&CMP=KNC-GNZ-SHOPPING-PMAX-2357846 Crimp tool D sub 26-20 from Element14, about $70.....or borrow mine. Does the job just fine. The 26-20 is the range of wire gauges. Part of the reason for the high price of the industry ones is that they have fittings for, and can be adjusted to work with a much wider range of wire sizes (and pins?) But you don't need that flexibilty: D-sub is one size and length of pin that accepts a small range of wire sizes.

I've had nearly similar but could have been worse. And there is that pattern again: a set routine that is normally reliable........... is disrupted in some way part way through..........and so not reliably completed. What I have tried to take away from my own experience is this: if my routine is disrupted, go back and start over.