Lyndon
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Everything posted by Lyndon
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I priced up genuine orings. Gee it would run at about 700 bucks. For one tenth I bought off the shelf jobbies. Almost 29 plus gst for a rocker cover o ring. Plus over 4 for the center bolt. There are no words to describe it. Lyndon
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I could not find any info on splitting the cases. Maybe you all know but case bolts studs etc is 25 nm. This seems to be secret. Cam timing is a breeze. Replace to two orings. Use three bond with a one not a two. Five dowels . Apart from that there is nothing else in the cases. Easiest thing you will ever do. Nitraded cam and hardened lifters. I don't think that works but I'm no expert. It was worn at 1740 hrs. So I'm guessing at 1000 hrs it would have been comprised. If Rotax got rid of the 1920s flat tappet cam I would not not have to do this. Lyndon
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That's it correct
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Ivan Teigh cams in Brisbane. I've spelt it wrong but Google will grab it. Speak to Dean.
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Update. I have split the cases and had the cam and lifters reground. I wasn't happy with new lifters on an old cam. The cam is nitraded. So hard as cats head for probably 2 thou then it's cheese which would explain some failures and why they go suddenly.they did give me the numbers but it's good now and should do another 1740 hrs with a better oil in it. Heads passed the softness test with flying colors.
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Yes I'm replacing my rings. My motor has 1740 hrs on it. The heads are like new. I lapped my valves but ever so light. Seats and valves have ton left on them. If you blued them and had a good seat with a good valve I can't see why it would be leaking. Maybe pull that head and get it looked at. I don't know your level of expertise but if you take it somewhere be careful. Everyone is an expert. You can cut the Seats but not the valves. Are you in SA . Lyndon
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For interest I had my heads tested today for hardness. 1740 hrs of use. They are above 100. Apparently 130 140 when new and 60 you really have to give it some thought. So pretty good really. I'm thinking the heads would be good for another 1740 hrs. Lyndon
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These are not the drain holes for vents are they. I need to drill them Lyndon
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Thanks for pics. Looks very nice. Opinions on matting for the tanks. Book recommended top and bottom. I have got some rubber. I guess enough just to stop rubbing. When I washed the tanks out I just could not believe how heavy two tanks in each wing will be. Thanks Lyndon
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Breathers of the four tanks. Manual says I holes top and bottom skins. I can see the top but the bottom hole is a drain ??? Inner rear location. Correct. So the existing hole in the top is redundant with the auxiliary tanks. Any tips ??? Or just drill a hole in the top and bottom to suit. Any pics would great. Lyndon
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I have just done all four tank outlets. Was very much not impressed with the set up. But I removed two outlets after 24hrs to inspect the sealing. They look perfect and I'm now confident they will be fine. An overnight leak test on all outlets before fitting.
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Yes I could imagine that buzzer would not be a nice thing
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All very interesting. Would I be correct that only air lock issues would arise if you were to run a tank low ???
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It's interesting about the header tank. I can see that as it fills initially the air has to go somewhere. I'm guessing as no tanks get low there would never be problem
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So in your case the breather on the header tank would be full of fuel ???. Wouldn't it be part of the fuel system and be at the same height as the fuel in the fuel tanks. ?? Lyndon
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I don't have any control. Both my inner tanks are on on. So no matter how I fill them they will equal out. I guess I just don't fill them up. I can fill the long range tanks as I have a tap on each of them to open and close . Not an overly good design. I would have thought using 15 plus litres and hour and returning only 4 it would be ok ??
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That makes sense. It's easier to reach for the taps on the passenger side is what you are saying.I have two taps so I can mount both on the passenger side. Then two lines from them to the the header tank. My return is going back to the tank as per the manual. I'm sure it can't pump back more than the tanks can equate them selves.
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Measure twice drill once
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Correction. I have two manifolds. Then two outlets to the header. In your experience one manifold on each side upper. Or both on the drivers side. I'm thinking what is best for ease of operation. Lyndon
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ok. Im fitting the tanks. Just confirming. Sight plastic pipe in the left tank inner. The left wing has two outlets, one for each tank, [ how long do need to have these fuel lines. ] I have the manifold kit from Reg. ???? The right tanks, two outlets one from each tank. How long for the fuel lines to manifold. then one fuel line which is a return line to the inner tank . Im asking allowable lengths of fuel line as dont want to be short and I have no experience in this and I dont have the fuse done to measure it. All four tanks plumbed to the manifold which sits behind the driver I think. From there a single line goes to the header tank. Correct ??? Thanks Lyndon
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Ok I will keep looking. But I clearly have wrong as this pre drilled hole lines up with a curved surface.
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Is it just me or ???. Manual is very unclear.
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This is the wrong way around. Eg the glass is on the outside. Can't see any reason why this would not work and it looks better. Thought s ??? Lyndon
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Thanks. I shall wait to some better pics. I've got it very close . But it won't hurt to see what you have done. Lyndon
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Did you trim your glass corner at all. The pics seem to show it cut on the top rear where it fits under skin and angular. Lyndon
