Lyndon

I've got nothing about discs in my manual. From what I see you remove the caliper or the rotor to facilitate the wheel removal ???. Pretty sure I have it correct. Lyndon

Does someone have a link to the manual for my disc brakes. My manual has drum brakes and the kit has discs. Thanks Lyndon

Nope that's me and my paint gun. Lot of prep but all done in Saturn two pack. Basically nothing on the plane will not at least have a lick of two pack primer. Lyndon

Surprisingly I went through the manual twenty times and could not find where the drilling instructions are. Some verniers and with all three measured they are all the same. I fitted up a tundra with the ride on mower tube. All interchangeable and very happy with how they all fitted up. Lyndon

I have drilled the rims. Easy done and my reasoning is. My tundra tyres came with expensive aircraft tubes that have offset valves. So that leaves me with three of the supplied tubes. So if all are the same they will all take the Two spare tubes that I now have. I'm sure the front condor with the cheap tube will be fine as the tyre is very robust. As my primary issue will puncture resistance. Lyndon

Yep I agree. Will sort tomorrow and order them

Thanks. I will make a call tomorrow and I think centered right angle tubes are the go. Lyndon

Fantastic. I will look into it. Lyndon

I'm doing the wheels as I'm waiting for parts. Are they serious. Tubes don't line up with the rims. Holes are in the center. Tubes are off set. What's the go. New rims or tubes or what. Surely a puncture or the tube will be holed while in the middle of nowhere. Or as rough as they are do they work. I'm thinking of 're drilling the rims for valve stem Lyndon

No worries. I improvise and fit them on top. Not a biggie but I can't find a regulator slash rectifier in my kit ??? No exhaust manifold gaskets I take it ??? Does the Rotax come with the hose fittings on the oil tank as mine didn't Last but not least. Before I start painting I don't need to run cables or wires anywhere in the plane. Eg wings and tail plane. ( I have to wiring for the stab control already in place ) Lyndon

I see by build pics that these fit similar to the tail plastics. Eg some aluminum fitted and then fit these to the aluminum. They need to be on top as it's too small to slide over and rivet. But my parts manual shows no such parts ??? Thanks Lyndon

All I can find is house stuff. Lyndon

So I'm guessing heat and unscrew it.

That is good news. Will have a crack at redoing then them. Lyndon

I have coolant elbows bolted with an o ring. But the design is these are sweated where it leaks. Lyndon

I have had time to clean and measure it. Been busy with a race engine that has ruined 4 k worth of titanium valves and the head as well at another 3 k. The joys of motor cyles Surprisingly the rings are well worn and the bore has zero wear. The bore fair enough but the rings were well shot before 1740 hrs. The guides are perfect so I'm thinking the shitty k and n filters did ok and dirt did not wear them. One thing I can't work out. Why sweat a fitting into a housing that runs a nice o ring. Only to leak where it's been sweated. Why not have an o ring and and collar. Cheaper and it actually seals. All my water outlets have leaked coolant. Yes I know glycol finds every weep but its unacceptable and such a easy fix. So I have something in mind. If it works I Will share it. Ps the bores wernt touched. My opinion is anything done to it will not be as good as leaving it. A good clean and she will be fine. Lyndon

On initial inspection they are all still honed nicely. At best I will give them a wipe with a scotch brite. Lyndon

100 hp engine

Taking a break from construction and doing what I really like. My thoughts on the Rotax 912 . First I wish the Japanese built one but anyway we will have to put up with Austrian engines for now. 2010 or 2011 not quite sure. 1740 hrs and it's mine. Pulled it apart and first impressions are it's made so simple and easy to work on. Not all orings seal perfectly which is normal for a European engine thus it's not as oil tight as is should be. Cooling system has quite a few leaks. Yep it's not Japanese. Inside the cooling system is perfect. Nil corrosion. Inside the engine is also very good. No sludge but at oil change intervals and how it's used I would expect better. The lifters are worn. I blame the oil for this. The oil rings are badly carboned up as is the heads and piston crowns. Bore pistons rockers valve seats guides etc show virtually no wear at all. The cam is fine upon initial inspection and will go around again. The front reduction unit is also perfect. Inlet valves are perfect and the exhaust have some marking but are now fine after a very light lap. Overall if this engine had better oil it would be only just run in at these hrs. The carbs also look perfect albeit very dirty etc. The oil pump is also like new. So lifters. Valve stem seals. Maybe a light home. Valves lapped. Some oil control rings new gaskets and seals and would be very disappointed if it didn't do those hrs again. Lyndon

100 hp. They have a tbo off 2000 hrs. Nothing to do with how long they last. Sorry I should have explained myself better. Cam looks good and lifters are worn. One would expect both the same. I was hoping to get some advice from someone who knows this engine. I have since found out that new lifters will be fine. Apparently they do fail but at early hours. At the hrs this engine has done it's just wear. Apart from the oil rings and lifters the rest of what I can see will easily do it again. Thanks Lyndon

It has had the correct oil. But I'm my opinion its not up to scratch. Porsche have a similar problem and it's the oil. What is good for the cat and emissions is not good for their valve train. Anyway when I say they are shot I mean the case hardening is just on the way out. Eg you would never put them back in. My concern is the cam looks good but lifters don't. Thanks Lyndon

Gday . This is just an initial observation. I've pulled a couple of lifters and they are shot. I've had a quick look at the cam through the crankcase and it looks fine. This is contrary to what I should see. Rotax 912 with 1800 hrs. I have no experience with these engines. I'm hoping to get another 1000 hrs out it. Will it respond well with just lifters ???. I'm just freshening up the top end with new orings. Everything is clean and the engine looks perfect. Thanks Lyndon

Makes perfect sense. Thanks Lyndon

I'm using the factory template. Happy with the diagonal on top. But the legs look to long and are not parallel with the row of rivets. By the manual at this stage it looks only the top is riveted.

Or it seems this can't be wrong. ???