skippydiesel

Has anyone used any of the following adhesives, to make good a crack in a canopy; E600 Industrial Strength Scigrip Weld ON 16 Acrylic/Polycarbonate Goroilla Glue Epoxy Gorilla Clear Grip - Fast Setting Permatex Permapoxy 5 Minute Weld Permatex Clear RTV Silicone ZAP Thin CA Glue JB Weld Plastic Weld JB Weld Superweld Instant Adhesive Acri-bond 110 Acrylic Cement Bostic Hard Plastic Loctite 406 Instant Adhesive Acrifix 192 Selleys All Plastic Glue Weld-on 3 Acrylic Cement TENSOL 12 Acrylic EVO-PLAS TC 731 Please make your Perspex crack repair recommendation, based on actual experince. My thanks . 😈

Thanks 440032 - looking into your suggestion now.😈

What is it with some people - You have had one experince , I have had another. This does not make your experince invalid (BS?????) nor mine. I recently applied for a federal security pass - The application accepted digital copies of origional documents BUT ALL origional documents then had to be viewed by third party for verification. This is not acceptance of digital documents.😈

Hi, Sonex Legacy 175 hrs, a few months short of 2 year since first flight Did my pre flight. Taxied down to the Club House. Came back to my Sonex & saw a 50 mm (2 in) crack in the Canopy had just appeared. Crack is almost exactly mid point, on the opening side, radiating perfectly straight up. Its so perfect, it looks deliberate. What to do?? Should I drill a stop hole? Perspex glue? My last air craft had no cracks after 20 years, now this!!! Any good instructions on how to deal with this problem? 😈

Accepting digital documents is still very patchy.😈

It really doesn't matter what names the business is under - Australia post is effectively/actually two businesses - the letter side uneconomic - the parcel side "going gang busters". The Australia Post CEO has often lamented the parlous state of Australia Post (letters) while neglecting to make any comment about the Parcel Delivery business. How you interpret this situation is up to you - I see the seperation into two business entities, it as a strategy for short term justification to hike letter costs and long term to divest (close?) the business altogether. It may be that electronic mail will completely supplant paper. This will require all sorts of "digital" documents to be accepted as legitimate eg birth , marriage, citizenship certificates 😈

"USPS costs have rocketed, because of two major factors. The first one, is the same one that has sent Australia Posts costs rocketing - and that is the Govt requirement to deliver letters to anywhere in the country at low cost. As the number of letters has declined substantially, so the costs to the postal agency have gone ballistic, as they need all the previous infrastructure and vehicles and employees, just to deliver a handful of letters a week to outlying areas." Australia ; While letter deliveries have precipitately dropped (due to email, etc) parcel deliveries have increased exponentially. Highly likly that the seperation of letter & parcel deliveries from one business, to two, is the principal cause of letter deliveries becoming uneconomic. The now separate parcel delivery is financial viable. This is an artificial seperation (much the same resources handle letters & parcels) designed to make an argument for higher letter delivery charges and eventually phase this service out altogether.😈

I have a Guardian iPad mount/docking station with charger & fan. I also have a Guardian, in paned, mounted USB-A, twin port, charger . Observations: The mount is flat to the panel, which is fine IF the directly in front of pilot. My son made up an angled spacer for mine, tilting the screen towards the pilot position (more betterer!) The fan seems to work well. The charger has been a problem from day one. Guardian do not respond to enquiries regarding product difficulties. Their products are TSO (certified) so very very expensive compared with say a good quality automotive/marine competitors Delivery costs from the USA may shock you. With my last aircraft I mounted my iPad/ RAM in-front of a small eyeball vent - worked a treat. 😈

AP can also lull the pilot into a false sense of security - "all's well, George is on the job". It will need to be used with care. Dont scrimp on the usual regular checks - on track/altitude/ time/fuel remaining etc. Fatigue is the product of work, in this case concentration ALSO altitude. The reduced O2 can effect the pilot/crew with fatigue like symptoms - the older you get the more likly to be effected. Dont go to sleep. Most AP do not handle turbulence well - you may find you are hand flying more than you might expect. I don't know the flight characteristics of your aircraft - Neutral Stability (many aerobatic aircraft) means that it will not maintain, with hands/feet off controls, a set altitude/wings level for more than a few seconds, before correction is required. Such an aircraft will require a sophisticated AP ($$$) that not only keeps the wings level, follows a track (heading) also must maintain an altitude. Opposite end - A Cessna 172, is astonishingly stable, can be set up to fly straight & level almost indefinably (fuel consumed being the main change to attitude) without an AP.😈

Hi Moneybox, In the distant past I used auto pilot (AP) but have not found the need since then. AP is a costly investment, I would be intersted to hear your rational for going down such a path. I am unsure why you have ADSB IN/OUT in the same conversation as Auto Pilot (AP)?? A transponder will enhance the safe operation of any aircraft, especially one that will operate in congested airspace. Currently not required for RAA level aircraft but in the future access to Controlled Airspace will require the carriage of an operating transponder. As you know I fly out of The Oaks, in the Sydney Basin, very congested airspace. To assist in my situational awareness, I have installed a transponder and a SE2 ( basic ADSB IN/Out). Combined with OzRunway I have a the facsimile of radar (blue bubbles with call sign, altitude & direction). This is a great system BUT depends on other aircraft having an operational transponder and/or OzRunways. Today I came across an R44, same altitude as me, that did not appear on my system. I notified the pilot - he didnt seem overly concerned. He was heading for Camden (CTR), operational transponder required - I wonder how he got on??😈

There was a time when the US had a public postal system similar to ours. The failure of their postal systems (& their non health system) is a good example of what happens when politicians legislate for short term vote getters and bugger the future. The US (non) postal system is a victim of market economics (thanks to Reagan/Thatcher) an extreme version of Capitalism. Like all extremes it is inherently unworkable/corrupt in the long term. Serves a few, while the majority are disadvantaged. 😈

Thanks for the advice D_G. Have ordered the: Campervan - QC3, USB-A 7.2 amp, USB-C 20.0 amp $48.00 The above unit arrived & was installed today. Have tested on the ground - seems to deliver ie charges iPad. Will follow up in a few hours with a report. Flying will have to wait until strong westerly winds abate - they cause nasty clear air/no cloud, rotor/turbulence in our area.😈

I have just gone trough the exercise of replacing my Rotax/Ducati VR - it failed at approximately 153 hrs despite not being mounted on "cold" side of of the firewall, with a dedicated fresh/cold air supply . I don't pretend to understand the electronics involved, however I am told that the latest VR type is the MOSFET. Not sure if the B&C VR, aimed at Rotax plug & play, is MOSFET or not . It seems to require the same capacitor as the Rotax/Ducati unit, while the EU ones don't. The two EU ones that seem to be most favoured are Silent Hectik and CARMO. CARMO is available in Au, through Vectric Parts. I purchased a CARMO CARR 5115 MOSFET - so far so good at about 22 + hrs Highly regarded by our American Cousins, Silent Hectic was/is only available through motorcycle dealership in the EU or if in the EU from the factory. Lots of debate on this topic in the Rotax Owners Forum; https://www.rotax-owner.com/en/general-tech-discussion/10942-voltage-regulator-failure 😈

sf Gnome; If your purchasing a Voltage Regulator from B&C, be aware they are at least double the price of some very well regarded European makers. Seems that deliveries from the USA seem to go by courier at very high cost. 😈

Thanks Bernie, Have ordered the: Campervan - QC3, USB-A 7.2 amp, USB-C 20.0 amp $48.00 If does not perform as required ,will give your recommendation a go.😈

The current charger is attached to the back of an iPad docking station ie its behind the panel. The new one will not be attached to the docking station but will still be behind the panel. Docking station similar to this; I have a second Guardian Avionics, two port panel mounted charger that I am currently using for the iPad. 😈

Hi Mike, Have just connected my SE2 to a Guardian Avionics, Panel mount , Dual USB-A, 2.7 amps/5 VDC Output. https://guardianavionics.com/products/smartpower-dual-usb-2-7-amp-power-dual-usb-a-port-front-panel-will-ship-august-1st I charge the SE2 overnight, befor connecting, as above. Have yet to fly. Should I be concerned? 😈

Just for comparison: The Guardian Avionics, non functional one, currently in the aircraft puts out 2.7 amps/5 volts & costs $269.O USA . It doesn't come wired (ready to go). https://guardianavionics.com/products/smartpower-dual-usb-2-7-amp-power-dual-usb-a-port-front-panel-will-ship-august-1st 😈

Found; All are hard wired units, requiring mounting. Clear Prop - USB - A x 2 2.1 amp x 2 $15 Aussie Car Supplies - QC 3 USB-A x 2, 6 amp x 2 $50.00 All Spark - QC3, USB-A 7.2 amp, USB-C 20.0 amp $50.00 Campervan - QC3, USB-A 3.6 amp, USB-C 20.0 amp $64.00 Campervan - USB-A, 2.4 amp, USB-C 2.4 amp $35 Campervan - QC3, USB-A 4.5 amp, USB-C 20.0 amp $48.00 Campervan - QC3, USB-A 7.2 amp, USB-C 20.0 amp $48.00 Jaycar - QC3, USB-A 3.0 amp, USB-C 3.0 amp $ 23.00 My current requirement, for my now quit old iPad, is for USB-A power plug. Future may be for a USB-C. With the exception of the Clear Prop offering, all of the above would seem to meet the iPad 2.4 amp Max demand. IF claimed output suggests less "stress" on charger the two USB-A 7.2 amp units would be the best choice. The most cost effective offering, meeting current & possible future needs, would seem to be the Campervan Builders $48 unit. Comments ?? 😈

As I understand (?) it the QC 3 capacity allows for up to 3 amps IF the devise will accept it. EG Single USB Outlet - Current Output: 3.6-6.5VDC @ 3A 6.5-9VDC @ 2A 9-12VDC @ 1.5A My interest is - If I plug my iPad Mini (Max charge 2.4 amps) into a QC3 capable charger, continuous use (as in multi hour flight), will the fact (?) that the QC3 is capable of higher charge rate, mean that it will run cooler & possibly be more reliable????? OR In the above specifications (JayCar charger) will the charger limit itself to 2 amps, which may be below the iPads continues use requirement? OR Should I try for a charger, with a claimed 2.4 amp output Note: I have yet to find a non QC3 charger with a claimed output above 2.4 amps. 😈

Is "Quick Charge 3" (QC3 standard specified for SE2 charge cable) a desirable feature ?

"...........it may be how you or your browser first access the site" JUST FOUND IT !! - My apologies , there all the time. 😈

Hi Danny, Good technical article - unfortunately does not address 12V chargers. All my 240V chargers seem to "do the job" . Either supplied with the device or purchased separately after considerable research. My interest is in chargers in the aircraft. I have several devices in my aircraft SE2, iPad mini, back up Garmin GPS, that would benefit from a reliable in aircraft charger. The Garmin has its own charger , plugged into a dedicated "cigarette" style plug - all good. The SE2 is now connected to a Guardian aircraft USB-A supply. (Check out Guardian Avionics for crazy cost https://guardianavionics.com/) The iPad used to be connected to another Guardian charger (located on the back of the iPad dock/holder) that no longer seem to be compatible with the iPad. It wont charge the iPad but will charge a phone - go figure! Have tried "known good" cable to no avail. I will not be purchasing another Guardian product - now looking for a reliable 12 V car style charger. I know getting a good, reliable charger is a bit of a lottery but would like to reduce the odds. For instance - should I try for a charger that delivers more amps than required ? Is a charger with "Quick Charge 3" worthy of consideration? Is a charger delivering 2.4 amps "better" than one delivering 2.1 amps? (By better I mean generating less heat, possibly more reliable as system not operating near max) 😈

Hi Burnie, Is it "better" to have a charger that can deliver more amps than required? I ask because I notice that some car chargers get quite hot. I assume this is because they are "working" near/at capacity - is this correct? I have always assumed that an electrical system that generates heat is to be avoided - next step being fire. 😈

If its not "on the menu" how will the customer/reader know its available?? The loss of Engine/Electrical/Airframe is major loss of a very valuable technical resource, that most of us will access from time to time. Much as I enjoy the "talk fest" component of the Forum, I value the technical advice/feedback very much more. I would ask Forum management to reinstate the above technical headings. 😈