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RFguy

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Everything posted by RFguy

  1. if you buy something NEW in a box, then you might cop 5% duty + 10% GST on entry so dissing stuff out of all the packaging is one way to reduce that. You might have bought it used, right ? otherwsie for a fleamarket, it might cost $1 right ?
  2. "Yes, the current enigines produced by these Japanese manufacturers are not ideal for aviation use (but they are close)." why not ?
  3. KG what are your total estimated servicing costs over 300,000 km ? just wondering
  4. and EVs right now, with their pricey tags, owner's expect they're not bottom row, are also at a luxury 'ghia' etc Not the bottom line vehicle like a very cut down Hyundai Excel , there's no such thing as a Hyundai Excel rock bottom car that's an EV... On the aircraft. yeah. the 180hp Piper is good for going to see clients (sometimes full to the brim with gear), family, or crossing endless tiger country or water however for going and seeing friends by myself regularly say 450nm, something like a old J160 costing 30k, wouldnt bother insuring it , and costing about 160mL/nm compared to 260 ml/h (best)... Which is why I am selling the J230. (halfway between the two requirements)
  5. Look. 1) electric cars are nice, but as highway cruisers they are marginal ROI . 2) For city stop start folk that can use regenerative braking effectively, they are fantastic. and they are price comparible with ICE cars as they havea small battery. but if we take the highway cruiser : The 50k electric car (with a 300km battery) once youve done 300,000km in it is going to have cost you $66,000 (electricity costs from the mains at night) . plus perhaps $500/year service (15 years) = 73.5k The 30,000 hybrid car at 4.5l/100km is goign to be $27,000 in fuel at 300,000km, so $57,000 (plus alot more in servicing, say $1200/year x 15 = 18k = 30+27+18 = 75k But to be apples with apples for highway cruising, you really do need at least 450km range or a 65 ish kwh battery .. really you do.... so you really need the 65k electric car. so you electric car is another 10 grand. this is all assuming you are not paying any sort of CO2 polluting tax If you have a massive solar array at home say 15kW your electricity costs are goign to be much lower, eventually) payback time on investment not to be forgotten ! so....
  6. Taking into account the cost of filling a battery at night from the mains.... and what it costs to run a hybrid Battery costs at the moment essentially means that if you buy an 330km range electric, compared to a hybrid, you are pre paying your first 12,500 litres of fuel, roughly prepaying your first 265,000 km in a hybrid ( 15 years ?) . given it costs about $5.50 per 100km for the electric (home charge) , over the same 265,000km of hybrid car, you are goign to fork out an additional $15000 of electricity. over 10-15 years, additional maintenance of the hybrid is likely to be about that in services compared to the electric. of course at some point the battery will die !! and ten now the electric car is really, really expensive !!!! So , small battery electric for city daily use makes good sense right now, but payback on the large battery EVs seems nonsense. so, Toyota's strategy of the hybrid is good right now me thinks, just not explained to the publix or pundits
  7. Are there more fuel selection mishaps at night ?
  8. maybe too much A to B flying and not enough EP (emergency proceedure) practice.
  9. I bring it up because it sounds like good tech, and also because I understand it might have been involved in a experimental in flight fire - https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=689385833173694&set=a.439934824785464 the owner admits making modifications to the engine system that were , "not best practice" ... full credit to the pilot /owner for owning up.
  10. and there are aftermarket hotrod kits also. IE hot it up (even more). Skido engines are usually very tough. Reading some forums, there are quite a few in experimental aircraft . People just buy a snowmobile and remove the engine....
  11. https://www.snowtechmagazine.com/genesis998turbo/
  12. I'm going to ping RAAUS about the GPS bit in the tech manual
  13. Thruster88 is correct. Certainly (RAAUS) you can do all the tests yourself, rectify unservicable items, then get the CAO 100.5 guy (I dont know any CAO100.5 women) to come and measure it and sign it off. This will minimize any hourly rate cost.
  14. You cant use GPS to cal the barometric altimeter..... unless you have calibrated and reliable barometer. But if you have one of those, you dont need the GPS. The GPS might be used for flying in a triangle to check the ASI.
  15. Yeah a bit of wander after each post is normal. I did two flights yesterday, each had the 1 landing as glide onto the grass from downwind (I did one in each direction) with ~ 30 deg bank turns at last 90 to 150 deg of turning (requires a flying a hook) flying 7 to 10 knots above best glide (which is about 1.4x Vs) at 80-85 kts, which gives me plenty of leeway above the no flap stall speed for turns, (and brief distractions ) and only costs 50 fpm approx extra sink rate . I find to judge the landing location well that doing rate 1 turns ~ 11deg AOB is not goign to be sufficiently tight , and it needs something like 25 to 35 deg (and steeper if necessary but you got to keep the nose down and fast) . So, I feel that the best glide speed is fine if all I have to do is fly straight ahead or through shallow turns (say getting myself back to the strip or some landing zone from altitude )
  16. yep. should be wired in Tefzel...... and restrained regularly. AND the CDI packs should NOT be sandwiched together- the bottom one will run as hot as hell (and they fail) put some washers on the screws between them so they are spaces at least 3mm Rotax is good with mechanical stuff but they know F.A. about good electrical installs. -glen
  17. Hi Keith I'm not familiar with whatever a 'standard jabiru intercom ' is. I didnt think there was one. Microair built in intercom is what I am used to seeing. But to deal with two radios 1) You need a DPDT (double pole, double throw) switch to switch the PTT and microphone to the radio of interest. just switch active wires, no need to switch the grounds. 2) for the radio audio output - two resistors in series down to a single wire should be OK, suggest 100 ohm , 1/2W resistors, in series with each output before the join. That will stop them interacting too much. .
  18. I'd like to see rotax wiring and looms built with Tefzel and Mil27500 series shielded wire....etc You can get multi colours in tefzel, also. it's not all just white.
  19. You cant really 'cleanly' monitor two radios at once without some electronics, IE if one turns off it will load the other down. You can use a couple of resistors in series with each radio ' combine' - say 100 ohms but there will be quite alot of annoying interaction. try and find an low cost intercom panel. Should have my radio shipping nend of year, I'm on a promise with a few.
  20. this wire that failed- did it fail due to insulation cracking (maybe due to continuoue expose to solvents) ? did it fail because it was rubbing / chafing on something else? Was it subject to repeated bending, even very small amounts????
  21. "Compared the the Sportstar, they both feel like dump trucks though with regards to handling." LOL. yes. The J230 is a real sports car compared to my Archer. And a Jabiru J120 is a sports car compared to a J230 ... and they're all dump trucks compared to Thruster's RV6. and I am sure Nev's F-27s are dump trucks compared to the Archer.
  22. fantastic. How do you find the Warrior /Archer difference ? Is the instructor heavy ?
  23. 2700 approx inc GST which includes the extra $300 for the extra PL required for larger airports. same for the Piper and the Jab..... ahh I think the Jab is a bit cheaper 2200 I think, but insured for similar. That was a broker from Insurance House. Geoff Tonkin, easy to work with. recommended
  24. Great to hear. Isn't that hard, is it.. Except the paperwork is pretty full on.
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