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Lyndon

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Everything posted by Lyndon

  1. Great I shall get riveting. Any tips on the trim wiring through the fuse ?? Lyndon
  2. So what your saying is I can go ahead and rivet up the fuselage skins and leave the elevator cables for a later date when I fit the tail. ?? Thanks Lyndon
  3. Now jumping a step. If I close up the fuse. Including the cargo area wiring for the trim and I have the rudder cables. I will be able to fit the elevator cables ok afterward s Lyndon
  4. No I haven't found any plate yet. I'm just sorting the wiring so it misses the cables etc. The manual shows all sorts of extra prices on the fuse which arnt in the parts list. So I will chase up the wiring the extra parts and prime them before I rivet up the fuse. If any one has a pic of their loom it would be a great help. Lyndon
  5. Incredible penny just dropped. Lyndon
  6. Don't match
  7. This is doing my head in. Minor problem the ribs a and b don't quite line up with the bottom skin. The big thing is I can't make sense of the angulars the bottoms make no sense. Holes are completely mis matched. I'm sure it's me but can't seem to work it out Lyndon
  8. Thanks. Will double check. I believe I fitted them correct but will check with the skins. Thanks Lyndon
  9. I will do all that. But the battery. What is the advantage of fitting in the rear. I'm thinking lithium ion in where the kit suggests. ???
  10. Probably not as much as I'm asking. Lyndon
  11. One question. Button up the fuse. Nothing I need to do. Eg cables wiring. ??? All can be done easily afterwards. ??? Lyndon
  12. Happy with it. Time to relax now. One question. Seems to make sense to leave one side off and rivet up three sides. For acces etc. But I'm guessing the answer is get all four clecoed then rivet.
  13. From what I know and have leant. Taking in mind I have just started mine. Take your time. Read the manual and ask lots of questions. Reason being every time you make a mistake and have to un pick rivets you compromise the hole. Be careful. Very careful. Does not matter how good you are they don't like being drilled out. Believe me I'm an expert I've drilled out lots. Lyndon
  14. I'm no expert but all the time is in preparation. Eg getting it ready for primer. It's a lot of work. It makes a nice job if go this way. Remember don't prime painted surfaces as prime to top coat has as 36 hour window. So you will be priming on primer. Weight is not good. Depends on what you use but wet on wet will eliminate sanding the primer. Lyndon
  15. Did you rub it flat dry or wet. Two pack rub it dry with a much corser paper than say acrylic. Should rub easy as. Two pack can be painted with much corser prep work Lyndon
  16. My. Two cents. You can't paint without keying it. I used Brown 3m about 300 quite corse. Easy fast leaves a great key. Six hrs before painting wipe with metho. Use a two pack. finish is superb. I use a 1 mm nozzle hvlp touch up gun. Perfect for 90 percent and a little slow on the big stuff. Fine finish and you can keep the primer to minimum. Going to all that trouble worth another 5 mins work with two pack Just be careful not to loose your part numbers. Lyndon
  17. Makes sense. Thanks Lyndon
  18. Outer. Angles ??? Meaning the four corner longerons ???
  19. Gunna have a go at mocking up the fuselage skins today on the ribs. Looks awkward. Any tips. Thanks Lyndon
  20. Yep I have already fitted a5 rivets . Found that out pretty much on the first one Thanks Lyndon
  21. Sorted. Thanks two points in front of the three ribs. Lyndon
  22. Thanks. Looks like number four block goes in between the ribs and the control longeron. Will have another look. Lyndon
  23. Then I seem to have one block left over. I have five of them. ??
  24. Ribs ??? A question. Manual is a little vague. On the cables. One nylon block on the rear of each rib. 4 5 and 6. The a block on both sides of the longeron ??? Thanks Lyndon
  25. Fantastic. Lazy using the net but for me to get that answer from manual would take a week. Thanks Lyndon
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