skippydiesel

Common Guys/Girls, your making a mountain out of a mole hill  - just use common sense & courtesy. Minimum 1000f over populated area (landings & take-off excepted, I rarely fly this low) and as PIC of single engine VFR  aircraft , you should always know where you will land, should the noise stop.

All very subjective - basically the PIC decide what constitutes "closely settled" how high to fly consistent with engine failure & gliding to a suitable forced landing site

2 hours ago, pluessy said:

you can also use a soldering iron or one of these small gas torches to just melt the lead around the hole and top it up with fresh lead or solder. In the old days, it was quite common to rebuild worn battery posts by fitting a steel collar of the correct size & taper (+ and - were different) over the worn/damaged post and use an oxy torch to melt the lead and rebuilt the post.

If you need to drill the new holes partly over the existing holes, the epoxy solution could cause the drill bit to wander off. Filling it with lead only will prevent that.

Good points Pluessy - new drill holes will be several mm to one side of the miss drills.

I had an alternative, to molten lead,  idea; very small lead shot (I have e some) mixed with high strength epoxy, packed/rammed  into the holes.

Hi,

My aileron anti flutter weights, have been drilled in the wrong place. I must redrill, but to do this I must  first fill the holes.

Melting lead, to pour into the first holes, is not in itself a problem (as a child I made lead fishing weights). However I am concerned that in so doing I may cause a greater problem.

My concern is, will the hot liquid lead cause partial melting of the weights? 

I have been considering placing the lead weight in the freezer for a few hours befor attempting to pour the molten lead into the drill holes - is this a good/bad idea/necessary at all?

Has anyone else faced this problem?

All the best

4 hours ago, spitfire said:

Ok, so if the larger sizes are difficult to find, do you use screw  clamps on these? As found in automobile apps?

Yes but choose carefully - if you go on the Tridon web site https://www.tridon.com.au/products/Tridon/35/480/hose-clamps you will find a huge range of hose clamps (there are other suppliers, so do the research).

On the Tridon site I would focus on; EFI SERIES - EXTENDED TANG MICRO, NA Series - Nut & Bolt Clamp,  either for fuel, oil & smaller coolant hoses. MP or SMP for your 25mm/1" radiator hoses.

Do not purchase slotted worm drive clamps for any application.

For best pricing, in the smaller sizes (fuel/oil/coolant) purchase  by the box, then just what you need for the larger 25 mm radiator hose.

Norma (below) do spring clamps, as supplied with new Rotax engines and most modern cars - you will need a pair of applicator pliers.

You could also try;

https://www.gatesaustralia.com.au/~/media/files/gates-au/automotive/catalogues/gates-clamp-catalogue-aus-nz-2019.pdf - great information but only limited umber of products readily available in Australia

https://www.normagroup.com/norma/en/products/ - more good info

https://www.pirtek.com.au/-/media/feature/products/sect-m-clamps-rev-c.pdf - as above

https://www.anzor.com.au/stainless-hose-clips

https://www.aimsindustrial.com.au/hose-ducting-fittings/hose-clamps/

1 hour ago, spitfire said:

Skippy, if I could ask you a question, do you use Oeticker clamps for securing the hoses , the EAA hints for home builders thinks they are a good idea?

No. If I understand correctly what Oeticker clamps are - one time use requiring a special applicator/clamp. practically, there is nothing wrong with this style of clamp, other than additional expense. They are neither better or worse than the alternatives except when emergency field repairs are required - I cant see the point.

My preference is for reusable fuel injector style clamps, of which there are at least two types (possibly more). What they have in common is  360 degree even pressure and are designed so as not to damage the hose (usually by having an extended inner"sleeve/tongue and smooth/rolled edges. Larger sizes(above 20 mm) can be difficult to find. Check out hose and hose clamp web sites for their offerings. 

The main things to understand with push on hoses & clamps is;

• First the hose must be well matched to the spigot - hose ID must match spigot OD. There is usually enough elasticity in a slightly small ID hose to slip over the spigot, with the aid of a smear of silicon grease. Never be tempted to use a slightly large ID hose - it will leak and may even become detached.
• Hoses should always be of sufficient length to accommodate engine movement (especially important with Rotax 9 engines)
• Depending on spigot design the clamp should be placed close to but not on, the collar. The clamps main purpose is retention of the hose (not to make it leak proof). In practice this means modest, non damaging, clamping pressure.
• When I see very tight clamps I suspect 1. poorly matched hose to spigot 2. hose damaged due to repeated removal/replacement 3. old hose gone hard, should have been replaced 4. low quality, incorrect type of hose 5. use of "barbed plumbing" type spigot instead of automotive.
• Shield hoses from extreme heat - this can be targeted (where needed)  ie shielding the whole length may look good but just adds weight & cost

Your welcome.

I am a passionate supporter of this and a couple of other similar (topic) Forums.

I believe their merit is in being helpful to fellow aviators, by giving opinion/experience , technical/practical advice, and sharing beneficial information (such as cheaper oil hose).

In my naivety, I am surprised that very few Forum members take up my offers of sharing in the benefits of my reserch and good luck - such is life.

2 hours ago, spacesailor said:

It was ,

PERFECT! ,

For those eons that humans had to carry everything on their back, never use a ' bushel ' for sand !. You will suffer a bad back. LoL

Thats why so on many crazy measurements are illogical now, ( we have mechanism,s to do our lifting ).

The newest ( should be in atheist ) , we now have lots of Births, without the original SIN !.

PS: GOD FORBID

spacesailor

 

Wow! I just love the thread drift - SIN!!!!

Spacesailer , this is RELIGION, one of the big no no's (I just love your tangential thought process and sin, of course)

I dont believe that  "Europe's supply of energy for heat generation, mobility, power supply and industry cannot be secured in any other way". 

Russia may be an important producer of oil/gas but is far from the only supplier - this is political procrastination.

Continued use of Russian products will "water down" sanctions, the only policy the West seems willing to apply (at this time).

I think there is little doubt that Ukraine has been "baiting" Russia for several years however this does not legitimise Russia's invasion and indiscriminate killing/destruction. 

Russia is a bastard of a state - look what they do to their own and vasal states like Syria.

1 hour ago, spacesailor said:

There is No logic in metric !.

Put a person on a desert island, & they automatkcly revert ba k to theold system.

Turn a handle , you suddenly forget ' mister Hertz ' 

No tape measure , no problem,  use ' hand '  or ' foot ',

And the same with every measurement , half a whole ( ' hole ' also ), half that & were back to fractions and not a milimetre will be found.

I mean who in this country ( in this world )  will have the Atomic ' guage ' to measure those metric numbers.

Fair go, they ' system International . Paris France ' will have you All talking their language.

Germany and japan lost their war And their metric type system,  DIN , & bu,sun system .

If the Axis had won ???????????.

spacesailor

No logic? 

Nature is, to my limited understanding, quite random (until you get to the atomic level) so feet, hands, paces, perceptions of temperature, etc and derivatives thereof, are all variable from the conceptual/onset stage and as we now find, end up with a non linear fractional & expanded measurements. Might have served our distant ancestors (& a castaway )well but are, in my mind, completely redundant now.

Your preoccupation with the French suggests a level of tribal irrationality. I care not who invented or determined the metric system, it is far superior to the imperial on every level. 

I have yet to meet a single user of the imperial system (aircraft), who does not have to almost continually refer back to "crib" sheets/computer to be certain of the correct measurement/expression of aircraft fixings/hardware. The system may just get by when you are in larger measurements (builders, plumbers & the like) but is a crock of excrement in most other situations.

I spent a short few years in Canada (similar mixed metric/imperial mishmash to Australia)  - for Gods sake they were still measuring grain in "bushels". I take it you understand how completely stupid a bushel measurement is?

On 09/02/2022 at 6:49 PM, facthunter said:

...............................A ribbon is the quickest thing to interpret.. . Nev

I dont doubt the veracity of your comment. The  "ribbon"  type of instrument scale was quit popular in cars,  in my youth, especially those from continental Europe. The trend did not last all that long (some outliers persisted )however it would seem that for the most part people preferer clock/dial type instruments.

I would suggest its the system you have trained yourself fort that you will be the quickest on and most comfortable with.

Further I speculate that conversion from one representation to another, will almost inevitably result in a degree of psychological "difficulty", which would make people resistant to change.

On 05/03/2022 at 11:22 AM, Bruce Tuncks said:

Funny how we think in psi for tyre pressures.. We were supposed to go metric in 1974 but I have always thought of tyre pressures in psi.

We are a mixed up bunch for sure. PSI has always been my preferred scale for pressure - wont give you  a 0.0689476  Bar of the alternative

Thanks Roscoe - not so familiar with Jabs, to actually visualise a 170D but know the local Jabs ?? have very small wheels (tyres) so I assume that they need a pretty high inflation pressure to perform satisfactorily.

2 hours ago, Old Koreelah said:

I’d like to see the world standardise on metrics and driving on the left;

two changes the yanks will refuse to make!

Yeah! When great powers are on the rise they are to belligerent to take the logical rout. When plateaued , to full of their own importance to listen to logic. When in decline, so insecure they hold on to every bad characteristic, as a talisman that will restore their greatness.

4 hours ago, turboplanner said:

In those days you could see down each side of the engine then; today electronics have been added to the non-symmetrical issues usually fitted high up on the opposit side to the battery.

 

Steering column assys are usually bought in and have the chassis mounting flanges on the RHS for a LHD car. Shift the column to the RHS and you don't have a mounting flange plus you probably have founing from a drain plug, and the existing column mounting flanges require other components to be moved to make new space.

 

In theory you should be able to turn the main electrical harness upside down, but it's not practical to shift some components becuse theres no room on the other side, so you need to extend some looms.

 

The handbrake that works comfortably in the centre console in LHD is non-ergonomic if you just leave it there in RHD so you have platform changes, spot welding changed, opposite-hand pressings to make, electrical offsets to gain opposite space etc.

 

The plenum chamber which takes advantage of no steering column and free passenger space has to be reverse designed and moulded.

 

I've just spent three weeks patiently cutting away in the RHS of the engine bay to fit a 700 CCA battery. The people who did the RHD conversion couldn't squeeze it in so they supplied a 400 CCA.

That and the fact that the battery was now on the opposite side to the starter motor, and required double the length of battery cable resulted in very unreliable starting. I found a way to get the big battery in, but had to cut and rebuild the plenum chamber, a new lower base plate assy and hold downs, slightly different mudguard angle and relocate about 30 autocables. In the process I discovered a missing fuse block which the converter had left behind the dash.

 

Ultimately it's a cost thing that has stopped the LHD manufacturers.

 

 

As I understand you you are saying, in short, cars have become even more L or R centric than ever befor. You may be correct, if so this just makes my opinion that the World needs to standardise,  preferably right hand drive (cause they are the majority) and metric measurements, again majority, simplest and most logical measurement system to date.

4 hours ago, turboplanner said:

The design and production costs are so high that General Motors has discontinued building in RHD.

The differences start in the body platform, steering column, battery carrier, exhaust system, wiring harness, and go from there to things like window controls, climate control plenums, swapping starter motor and alternator mounts etc.

 

Australia just doesn't have the volume of sales to justify stand along designs any more, so we will be pulling product from high volume RHD producers whether we like them or not.

 

 

I dont agree; With the exception of the instrument panel (which would include air conditioning control & delivery systems), I have seen cars (eg Mercedes W123 from the 1977-85) that have been designed, from the outset, to be  either L or R.

Sure many require radical changes but this is a decision or lack of, by the manufacture.  One good example of adaptable design is the windshield wipers - they should all be of the symmetrical centre out or single arm design. Window controls, dont have to be in the door arm rest, they can be centralised,  etc etc.

5 hours ago, kgwilson said:

75 countires drive on the left & 165 on the right. All of our neighbours drive on the left. In Europe it is only the UK, Ireland, Malta, & Cyprus. Sweden used to but switched in 1967 as they are part of continental Europe & changing at the border became too much of a problem. None drive on the left in North America but most of Eastern Africa from Kenya to South Africa drive on the left (ex British colonies) but West Africa drive on the right (ex French colonies). In South America a lot of countries drove on the left & in Brasil in the early 20th century they drove on both sides in different districts but changed to driving on the right in 1928 when Portual that used to drive on the left changed to the right. Only Suriname & Guyana still drive on the left.

 

The only country to switch the other way is Samoa an original German colony. It switched to the left in 2009 to fit in with the rest of Oceania & as car imports came from Australia, NZ & Japan.

 

It won't make much difference in the future as it is much simpler to have left or right steering wheels in electric cars. I don't think for us & many countries they will ever change now. Gear shifting is becoming a thing of the past & anyway I'd sooner have my right hand on the steering wheel when changing gears & the accelerator near the right hand door. Not an issue now but remember bench seats when anyone in the front could put their foot on the accelerator in a LHD car.

 The mechanics are fairly straight forward; some suspension alignment changes a different rack & pinion or worm drive steering system - its the costs associated with instrument panel/dash board and safety/airbag changes that are the big hurdle.

The history & politics of why we drive on the left or right are often as much about urban myth as anything else.

Stuff about having your whip (horse drawn vehicles)  in your L/R hand and sward hand on right (poor old lefties).  (Gentle) Men are supposed to walk on the right side of ladies, so as to defend them should they be attacked/insulted (so much for equality).

I doubt the French could give a rats arse about the side of the road the Poms drive on, however I could believe the Poms cared about this sort of trivial / tribal detail and decided on the left, just because they are / were GB and in doing so shot themselves in the economic foot  - look where the British Car industry is today.

What side (or centre) the gear shift/controls are on doesnt matter a jot, you will quickly get used to the vehicle/machine you drive/operate.

By keeping to the dictates of our past Colonial masters we self limit the variety of vehicles that are available to much larger population of left hand drive nations

From my perspective we would all be so much better off, if we conformed to a World standard (preferable left hand drive and metric and ditched local summer/winter clock changes) - just makes sense.

16 hours ago, spacesailor said:

Or go,  OLD SCHOOL rule.

Inflate to guesstment, do a couple of high speed taxi runs, to heat those tyres.

If 4 c higher than start, they're at optimal infation, any less is over pressure,  any more is under optmal.

A word from yesterday !.

spacesailor

All good suggestions Spacesailor, however its not a bad idea to start with a safe pressure - hence the question

FYI

Sonex instructions;

"Inflate the tubes to approximately 50 psi. 30 psi provides a bit more "cushion" but increases rolling drag and may cause a pinched tube if flying off a hard surface runway. be if flying off a hard surface runway. "

No mention of tyre make, model or size

12 hours ago, Thruster88 said:

I am guessing they are 5.00x5. For an RV (750kg MTOW)  with that size 25-35 is recommended. For 600kg MTOW 25 will give good shock absorption without risk of tyre failure. 35 will give longer time between inflation,  TBI.😄  

Thanks Thruster - I should have mentioned the size. You are correct 5.00-5, 6 ply

Good stuff Gentlemen - I just new that there would be some real world experience/help out there.

Like most of you I will be operating off grass 90% of the time. Only the occasional away trip will see me venture onto sealed runway's (I forgot about Napper Field & Mittagong).

Sounds to me that 30psi might just be a good all round pressure.

We all have to land sometime so tyre pressures should be a hot topic.

My new Sonex is fitted with Goodyear Flight Custom, 6 ply tyres .

Finding the correct cold inflation pressure seems unnaturally difficult.

As far as I can make out, from the variose Goodyear manuals, these tyres are rated at 50 psi for a maximum load of almost 563 kg/tyre. My max Take off weight is 544 kg so the tyres are well & truly over specified (probably to get the 6 ply rating for thorn resistance).

My last tyres were easy - road rated wheelbarrow size, so just used 36 psi - worked for me.

Your advice comments, on tyre  pressure, will be most appreciated.