Intermittent cold-start problem on original Jabiru 3300A Gen2 – looking for anyone who has experienced the same symptoms.

[Mikelius22]

Subject: Intermittent Cold Start Failure – Jabiru 3300A S/N 33A1751

 

I am requesting your assistance regarding an intermittent cold starting problem with my Jabiru 3300A engine (S/N 33A1751).

The engine has approximately 270 hours since new and remains completely original, including the Bing 94 carburetor and the original ignition system. No modifications have been made.

The problem began approximately 25 flight hours ago and has progressively become more frequent. Initially it occurred only occasionally, but it now happens during approximately 80% of cold starts.

The symptoms are very consistent. During a failed start attempt, the starter cranks the engine normally but the engine shows absolutely no indication of firing. There are no pops, coughs, or attempts to start. It simply continues cranking until the battery eventually becomes discharged.

Once the engine starts successfully for the first time, it operates perfectly. It idles smoothly, develops full power, runs normally throughout the entire RPM range, and performs flawlessly during flight. After that first successful start, it will restart normally, even after remaining shut down for approximately one hour. The problem only occurs during the initial cold start.

The issue is independent of ambient temperature.

The following troubleshooting has already been completed:

• Installed a new battery.

• Verified proper starter cranking speed.

• Performed a complete inspection of the ignition system, including cleaning the magnetic trigger surfaces, distributor caps, ignition leads and related components. Everything was found to be in excellent condition.

• Confirmed strong spark on all six spark plug leads during cranking.

• Spark plugs are the NGK model specified in the Jabiru manual, are nearly new, and their gaps were verified.

• Compression test results are: 77 / 75 / 77 / 76 / 78 / 77 psi.

• Performed a complete inspection of the original Bing 94 carburetor. No worn or defective components were found, therefore no parts required replacement.

• Fuel is fresh 100LL aviation gasoline with no signs of contamination.

• Tested both the mechanical fuel pump and the auxiliary electric fuel pump.

• Tried every recommended starting procedure, including the procedure described in the Jabiru manual using the primer only, starting without priming, using throttle pumping, and several other starting techniques. None changed the behavior.

• The engine originally came from the northern United States and had an oil sump heater installed. Since we are currently in winter, the heater was reinstalled, and we also preheated the engine thoroughly with a forced-air heater before attempting to start. Neither procedure produced any improvement.

Additional observations:

• Spark is always present during failed starting attempts.

• Spark plugs show normal fuel wetting after unsuccessful cranking and do not appear to be flooded.

• The engine has never exhibited rough running, power loss, misfiring, or any abnormal behavior once it has started.

• Every shutdown prior to the appearance of this problem was completely normal.

Based on all the troubleshooting already completed, we have been unable to identify the source of this intermittent cold-start problem.

We would greatly appreciate any recommendations regarding additional diagnostic procedures or any known issues that could produce these symptoms.

Thank you for your assistance.

Best regards,

[mkennard]

What battery did you buy? I found the Oddessy hopeless in winter. Since buying the Moto brand, I get the RPM to start everytime.

[facthunter]

Some Plug gaps as supplied, may be too wide. Try reducing them to say .022"  Nev

[skippydiesel]

7 hours ago, Mikelius22 said:

Subject: Intermittent Cold Start Failure – Jabiru 3300A S/N 33A1751

 

• Installed a new battery. Check for sufficient cold cranking amps - more is better

• Verified proper starter cranking speed. How did you do this?

• Performed a complete inspection of the ignition system, including cleaning the magnetic trigger surfaces, distributor caps, ignition leads and related components. Everything was found to be in excellent condition.

• Confirmed strong spark on all six spark plug leads during cranking. Spark at HT connection to plug does not indicate plug sparking normally.

• Spark plugs are the NGK model specified in the Jabiru manual, are nearly new, and their gaps were verified. Check for plug spark

• Compression test results are: 77 / 75 / 77 / 76 / 78 / 77 psi.

• Performed a complete inspection of the original Bing 94 carburetor. No worn or defective components were found, therefore no parts required replacement. If rubber components old (even if never used) replace

• Fuel is fresh 100LL aviation gasoline with no signs of contamination.

• Tested both the mechanical fuel pump and the auxiliary electric fuel pump. If float chamber has fuel, pump not required for starting

• Tried every recommended starting procedure, including the procedure described in the Jabiru manual using the primer only, starting without priming, using throttle pumping, and several other starting techniques. None changed the behavior. The Bing 94 does not have a choke in the conventional sense  - its uses an enrichment circuit. Check for choke lever action - must go to Full On stop. Throttle nil or just started (if panel knob  - max 12 mm out )

• The engine originally came from the northern United States and had an oil sump heater installed. Since we are currently in winter, the heater was reinstalled, and we also preheated the engine thoroughly with a forced-air heater before attempting to start. Neither procedure produced any improvement. Preheating only required in extreme cold 

Additional observations:

• Spark is always present during failed starting attempts. How do you know this?

• Spark plugs show normal fuel wetting after unsuccessful cranking and do not appear to be flooded. Wet plugs are usually an indication of overrich mixture (should not be wet)

• The engine has never exhibited rough running, power loss, misfiring, or any abnormal behavior once it has started.

• Every shutdown prior to the appearance of this problem was completely normal.

• Check air filter for contamination. Try an engine start without filter.

It seem likly you are flooding the engine and or carburettor rubber parts need replacing. Good Luck!

 

😈

 

 

[facthunter]

The choke doesn't work if the throttle is open too far. Cold engine means cranking speed is lower particularly at the time the spark is supposed to fire. That's why I suggested setting the Plug Gap closer. Having the throttle open more  loads the starter as more gas fills the cylinders and has to be compressed.  Nev

[tillmanr]

Isn't the correct cold start up- No throttle, full choke?

[facthunter]

That's where I would start from on a cold day. Nev

[skippydiesel]

35 minutes ago, tillmanr said:

Isn't the correct cold start up- No throttle, full choke?

Mostly - however many find that a smidgeon of throttle works better than none.

 

I have very little jab experince  - don't think they don't have the "soft start" auto ignition advance, of the Rotax, so a little throttle often helps to get the cold engine straight into fast idle. Its also important to keep cranking the engine, until start has been established - To many pilots let the start button/switch go, on the first cough of the engine.😈

Edited July 10 by skippydiesel

[facthunter]

Your advice there can impose a lot of Load on the starter mechanism. I would NOT advise it.Nev

[BrendAn]

how did you verify the cranking speed. are you sure the reading was correct.

you have to get to 300 rpm for the ignition to fire although if it starts ok warm that probably rules the starter out.

[skippydiesel]

11 hours ago, BrendAn said:

how did you verify the cranking speed. are you sure the reading was correct.

you have to get to 300 rpm for the ignition to fire although if it starts ok warm that probably rules the starter out.

I already asked about the crank speed - no answer as yet.

I don't think you can assume that a starting system (battery, wiring, contacter/solenoids, starter motor) are all in good condition, just because the engine starts when warm/hot.

Cold starting is always the most demanding.😈

[facthunter]

RPM doesn't give you the true Picture. It's the rotational speed at the exact point of  the spark occurring  that matters for spark generation with anything but Coil ignition. That's why some Magnetos have an impulse mechanism.  Near TDC  and BDC four cylinder motors have NO flywheel assistance from the Pistons Mass at that Point. Compression slows the rotational speed also on the compression stroke. That's why it's best to have the throttle closed when you start cranking the engine.   Nev

[JabiruWeekendWarrior]

I too used to struggle with starting my J160 2200 in the early days with now over 900 hours of flying, found best as mentioned above, full close throttle and full choke and crank until it fires.. 

[dlegg]

On 10/07/2026 at 8:25 AM, Mikelius22 said:

Tried every recommended starting procedure, including the procedure described in the Jabiru manual using the primer only, starting without priming, using throttle pumping, and several other starting techniques. None changed the behavior.

The bing carburettor does not have a primer, nor does pumping throttle do anything. You need to research the bing. Correct starting procedure is throttle completely closed and full choke. Try that.

[skippydiesel]

3 hours ago, dlegg said:

The bing carburettor does not have a primer, nor does pumping throttle do anything. You need to research the bing. Correct starting procedure is throttle completely closed and full choke. Try that.

Already stated  - I don't think the OP is reading the responses to their problem.😈

[facthunter]

 In the distributors, Check the gap between the rotor and the  contacts in the cap is not excessive. If it is you will lose spark. Nev

[facthunter]

Factory Jabiru recommended Winter Plug Gap is .020".  Nev

[Thruster88]

Using aeroshell 15w50 instead of aeroshell 100 or w100 will help with cranking speed in cold weather. It can be used all year round and may even increase oil pressure in very hot situations. 

[facthunter]

For cold places, it's the recommended oil. It's thickened by using Polymers, which have a finite Life but the usual oil change periods  cover that.  Nev

Edited July 12 by facthunter
More content.

[kgwilson]

I never had a problem with my Gen 3 3300A till I went out West and in the morning it was minus 4 or 5 degrees with frost all over the aircraft. No amount of cranking had any effect & I flattened the battery. The answer was blindingly simple & FH has already mentioned it. I closed the gap to .020 got a jump start & it fired straight away. As has already been stated the throttle must be fully closed & the choke on fully. It really isn't a choke at all but a secondary separate rich jet system.

 

Jabiru can also supply a cold start kit which provides a much ore powerful spark by replacing one of the coils with a vhv coil. I believe they are very good in extremely cold conditions.

[IBob]

Have you checked the ignition coil gaps? I have seen that make a big difference on a Rotax that had poor starting.
Needs to be checked with a non-ferrous gauge, either that or no-go for next gauge size up, as regular feeler gauges stick to the magnet, feels like snug fit even if it's not.

 

[440032]

We need to know exactly what battery is installed.

If some other than standard Odyssey battery is installed, you're on your own.

As someone who does regular super cold weather starts, (2200 engine) effortlessly, with the recommended Odyssey PC625 battery..... I'd use nothing else, despite battery spec promises.

I also get ten years out an Odyssey before I change it, and it's still starting just fine every time, summer and winter. Ten years is my limit, not the plane's limit.

 

Winter plug gap = true, there is such a setting and from experience, it does make a difference. 0.020" is indeed the figure in the manual.

NGK D9EA plugs, (we assume)

Coil gap check = true, check it. I found a cardboard manilla folder piece is the exact thickness. (digital micrometer used) 

THICK OIL = could be problematic. I've only ever used 15W multigrade oil, all year round.

CHOKE full on, throttle full closed = true. (assume choke is fully opening.)

[facthunter]

Similar to Pole gaps on any Magneto. Crankshaft end float May affect wear there. Same with the distributors and axial shaft play will increase the gaps there as  will arcing over a period of time. Rotor and caps may Leak current when damp. especially.  300 RPM cranking speed is not uniform. An idling engine nearly stops approaching TDC and when starting behaves the same. Don't forget spark Plug are usually gapped at about .032" when supplied.(.8 mm). Leaving them as supplied will certainly affect how the Motor starts max Jab gap is .022", with recommended reduction to.020", if experiencing Hard starting.   A dirty Plug Insulator may also cause tracking but that's more Likely under Load. It takes More Volts to fire a Compressed Mixture. Commence cranking with the throttle Fully closed. That gives the starter the easiest life as there is practically No mixture to compress and resist the starter. Older Starters may also need attention. Worn Brushes. Commutator out of round  Armature Polling and solenoid Points cooked. Double check all battery connections and engine earthing. There should be no Heating of any terminal and if the Battery is even a BIT SUSS chuck it, and always have it fully charged and big enough to do the job.  IF the Battery is a long way away maybe UP the Wire diameter to reduce Voltage drop. Nev

Edited Wednesday at 08:23 AM by facthunter

[kgwilson]

Setting the coil gaps is easy. The recommended procedure is to loosen the bolts, pull the coil away from the flywheel & tighten, insert the correct feeler gauge, loosen the bolts & let the coil clamp down on the feeler gauge, tighten the bolts & pull the gauge out. If you can't budge it loosen the bolts a bit & wiggle it out, tighten & recheck the gap. It doesn't matter if the gauge is magnetic or not.

[kgwilson]

The brand of battery has no bearing on whether the engine will start or not. It has to spin the engine when cold to more than 300 rpm, that's all. I know of a number of Odessey batteries that have not gone the distance. They are expensive and as a rule of thumb you get what you pay for but they are no better than a number of other brands in my opinion.