Kyle Communications

Mabel is now back at Burpengary. I have purchased in partnership with a mate of mine a little fun machine that was too good to refuse for the price. It hopefully will be flown this weekend from where it lives at Coominya to YCAB so I needed to put it in the hangar. So Mabel is now back here in the new shed I have just had to put up here due to doing a subdivision on our block. So Mabel will be getting work done on it as my time has been very little to work on her since we started this massive subdivision here and other big jobs up at the farm. I will get the tailfeathers on and all connected also get the seat bases back in and do some finalizing on the wiring. I will bring the wings back here too and get them fitted as the struts will be slightly longer as I will be putting a little dihedral on the wings and the new shed is big enough for me to be able to accurately do this.Will also need to look at getting the seats made as well. After a little cleanup work on the Genesis it will go up to the farm then Mabel will go to the hangar to have the wings fitted and final fitout.

I thought they said it was a Cirrus maybe I misheard

Ch7 says its a untralight...also say ATSB dont investigate these....geez they still cant get it right...

I dont recall it being a problem on my Sav

here is one that may work..its a rounded roller but maybe get some of those 4 inch flat rollers and ut them down to fit..not sure as I used the paintbuddy. Amazon has the paint buddy listed now...maybe someone was sitting on some especially for the price. When I bought mine I am sure they were only 20 bucks or so Some of the TEMU ones are work a look certainly at the price and Temu are pretty quick on delivery https://www.amazon.com.au/SHUR-LINE-57930-Rubbermaid-Paint-Buddy/dp/B000A2JTNW https://www.amazon.com.au/Bestt-Liebco-Painter-Storage-557700130/dp/B07HRK9F77/ref=sr_1_1?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.5d1ztZflX0yaBPZtAsOjyT6yW0cbhJZ_hGIy85ekquAW1yS6HZ5wfjNAYDWeiZEfE40iG-_4uQClxa6jgqhSYUpcsMOAfKHLSThnM5BWveTeQG9x-64oJ92oHTu_Pp4989OSnPmhZSaZ6CvMHNr1l82h-j1Lj11uroIK-WzmP3R09bOsyLHsC8bpobry7AHbIerrug0yR56xnPjHfYrVy3UW15FDakco_Uy82puOIk_8q9mQvagWJxjdKqt-p1qf9sRCYSlphnpwNzVQJfDF8DXz16i_KwHfmjG5ghoNl3E.shyUUCWgEBiwLdmGi2IQSJvrZ6dYmvpCivTaP1OpHxs&dib_tag=se&keywords=paint+buddy&qid=1718425140&sr=8-1 Paint Rollers High density Fabric Roller Frame Tray Mini - Temu Australia WWW.TEMU.COM Find amazing deals of 8 paint rollers high density fabric roller with frame tray mini paint roller refills painting supplies for smaller diy stenciling projects on Temu. Shop on Temu to start saving. Diy Small Roller Brush White Water based Paint Wall Repairs - Temu Australia WWW.TEMU.COM Shop 1pc diy small roller brush 100g white water based paint for wall repairs graffiti cover renovation crack concealment fragrance free home improvement tool on Temu. Discover more great prices on Tools &... Sponge Paint Roller Three Different Sizes Large Medium Small - Temu Australia WWW.TEMU.COM Shop 3pcs sponge paint roller three different sizes large medium and small 7 28 2 76inch 7 09 2 17inch and 5 91 1 38inch at the lowest price at Temu. Check reviews and See what's new of Arts, Crafts & Sewing...

Those streaks are fine but level off those drip runs with a gem blade or something. There are similar rollers still around from memory I did post some on this thread or another. I will find it and post it

The AV30 is TSO'd of course. Microair the price for experimental they said is US$5k so thats about AU$7000. You try to get a Garmin setup like G3 it will set you back 25K min with the gear it requires to be TSO'd The website says 2025 so I suppose we will see but to get them certified even the Microair boss says it will be convoluted getting it done. Its a nice idea I suppose but any sort of digital display panels or instruments are bloody expensive now.

Thats good that Sue is still there. She did a tour for me and she also had some great future ideas when speaking to her but I think Rod didnt want to do them. The new owner I think maybe a lot more forward thinking

Just machine up a plug from alu and machine in a Oring in the front flat surface ND A ORING IN THE REAR THREADED NUT WITH WASHER FACE FOR THE INSIDE. THEN IT WONT LEAK WHEN FITTED AND NO NEED TO PROSEAL. MAKE SURE BOTH ORINGS ARE VITON AND FITTED CORRECTLY INTO THIER SLOTS..opps not retyping sorry about the caps

I believe the new owner has more than 50% share. So controls the company and its direction. Stiffy is still there just for the profits I would think'

Christian if you are going to be coastal all the time then consider alodining. It actually isnt that expensive if you can find a powwdercoating place that does it. There are plenty around and they often have 6 metre long tanks that can do your skins no problem. The smaller parts you can do at home like I did. Just need to make a good size tank about 1 mtr long and about 300 high and 300 wide. Alodine..the good stuff is available...I got mine from a distributor over the south side of bbrisbane. My S rebuild is completely alodined . The sheets are easy..well the big parts because someone else does them for you but there is a lot of small parts. You need a acid bath first then wash them off then alodine them and let the alodine dry. The black stuff is still a must. I also would spray etch prime over the where you will be putting in all external rivets like the pics I posted

Enrico. yes. email me. [email protected]

It is water based and supplied in the ICP savannah kits for putting between mating surfaces. We tried finding a equivalent here. I found a maybe similar product used in marine applications but never bought any to try. I just order the tins direct from Aerokits the ICP distributor. My RANS is being done with it as well. Having dealt with a few wrecked sv's and rebuilds and a new build this stuff is very good and the alu does not corrode or scale at all between panels..rivets maybe corroded and other parts but where ever the black stuff is the alu is perfect no matter what age

Hi Christian I am in contact with guys in a another country that assemble savannah and venturas as factory builts. I was talking to them about the Ventura and they told me a std 912 100hp is not good its marginal...a 914 is just ok but the Ventura flys very well with the 915 IS

I use the best product for a job to make the job quicker or easier..I am not worried about the expense. I have dealt with much more nastier stuff in my worklife, Carbon tetrachoride and triclorethelene also PCBS in transformers and other related high voltage distribution equipment and I have a farm and deal with all sorts of other nasty crap too for the farm.....I take whatever precautions I need to. I am not a cheapskate I do the right thing for the right job to be as efficient as possible. That maybe your view above but this is my view..you do what you want and I will do as I want to. I am still alive and kicking You also really have a strange view..why would I think I am a hero????... I think your on the wrong planet Skippy. I was asked for my advice..you either take it or dont...simple.....I am not offended if you dont take the advice I offer because it was the way I did it and it worked fine. I really dont care for your opinion on it either way..this is my opinion and I dont have to explain it to you or anyone. Do what ever you feel comfortable with. My 2 cents worth Mark. is my name by the way...maybe I should start calling you by your last name. You would think after all these years on here you might actually get it right for once

Yes correct only on the outside that way the heads of the rivets have a coat of etch under them. The etch primer is super thin not like a full paint job like the pictures

Iso is no where near as good as acetone. Acetone is fine dont be a pussy just like anything use your head how you use it. I use much more carcenogenic liquids in my electronics manufacture. its like anything .... use the right gloves and wear a mask..takes 30 seconds to put both on. Use the best stuff for the job. Anything can kill you

The black goop is a must but it must go on first to the bare alu. No primer at all for the black stuff. Its a water based paint that when dry seals oxygen off totally under where is was painted. dont put primer under it or over it. Make sure you always clean the bare alu with acetone of similar before putting the goop on to remove any oil/grease that maybe on the sheets. Where maybe black stuff may be seen depending on the lay of the parts allways prefit the parts then use masking tape to get a perfect line because once the black stuff sets its can be removed but its elbow grease and acetone and a scotchbrite otherwise you will see it under your paint What engine are you putting in?...It really needs to be a 915IS or similar hp

Christian I would not alodine any of my aircraft again its a massive job..looks really great and if it was living next to the ocean or I had it on floats then maybe the alodine again. The black stuff is all you need to be honest just make sure you apply it on both mating surfaces and let it dry before you do the join. That black stuff is damn good and it prevents any corrosion between joints or mating surfaces. The alu is 6061T6 and it is not supposed to have any sort of major corrion but it still can if it is not prepped properly. The only thing you need to do is the black stuff and where you are going to place rivets its a good idea to run over those lines with etch prime and even dip you rivets into some etch prime before you rivet them. A good etch prime over the whole aircraft external before painting. The alodine is overkill for most aircraft. After building 2 savannahs and helps a lot of other doing their kits this is what I now do. I have a RANS S-21 Outbound kit being done now. I am using the black stuff on every mating surface...like the tops of the ribs and then the corresponding position of that rib on the skin and the same with any other mating joint in the aircraft. There is no alodine in this S21 just the black stuff and etch prime as I said If you go through the Sav S rebuild you will see what I mean about the etch prime over where you will rivet skins as this at least gives you a layer of protection under the rivet heads...this is where most corrosion occurs Mark

I just use the stuff I use for electronics on heatsinks...works fine

Rodger thats also the same for a std MV licence holder let alone any of the other CASA licences

Its not that simple for some of us. I require a drivers licence medical..done by my GP every year as I drive on a HR licence ( its a 30 min appt and cost $200 !!!!) ...and I have "special conditions". So even if I have a std licence I still need a medical as I am a type 2 diabetic...not bad only just now but used to be bad. A std licence would just be a sign off by the GP but because I have the HR licence I then come under the Austroads banner for trucks. CASA cant refuse me a Basic Med licence though and I have had one but the Basic Med I need to go to a DAME where the GP is cheaper. The Class 5 licence is still the same for me BUT I am now looking at possibly shifting my RANS S-21 from what was going to be Group G to possibly VH Experimental because its easy for me to do. I havent decided yet but if I wanted to re engine the S-21 that would make it up to 820kg MTOW which of course takes it out of Group G

I think he said his cost 55k that was std wheels and 4 tanks and exteneded baggage area...no prop

Heard from a new builder who just got a new S kit here a few weeks ago that there are no steam gauges supplied now but some AVmap EFIS and the slip indicator...