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danny_galaga

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Everything posted by danny_galaga

  1. Many, including me, use this design, from K & n https://www.knfilters.com/re-5287-universal-rubber-filter
  2. Mine have a similar heater. A bit more hose, but I've decided it's worth it. I like that it virtually imparts no heat to the inlet air, it just keeps the surfaces warmer, which is where the ice sticks after all πŸ˜‡
  3. Again, we need the 😲 reaction on this forum. Damn, I know there could be a multitude of factors in play, but it really seems like he doesn't know to keep airspeed up, in this case by lowering the nose. Of course there could be reasonable explanations, like partial power failure, and there's not much time for the WTF effect to have passed.
  4. I've said it before, and I'll say it again, we need a 😲 reaction
  5. Much more sensible cloth hinges used during the repairs πŸ™‚
  6. Well, it turns out that making the hinge from tissue wasn't such a good idea πŸ˜„ I can't even remember why I did it that way. Quick to do I guess. Will add cloth hinges when repaired
  7. For sale. I'm doing this for a really great price for forum members, but the proviso is that for that price it is definitely pick up only, southside Brisbane. This is a P prop. Made in South Africa. This is their website: http://www.p-propeller.co.za/ This is a beautiful wooden propeller. 72 X 48 two blade. This design was first tested on a different aircraft to mine but broadly similar to mine. Mine is a Bushcat. What I didn't realise though, is that the other aircraft must have been a 912UL with a 2.27:1 gearbox. Because when it came time test fly mine (2.43:1 gearbox) it could only manage 65 knots and the engine could redline on takeoff. I've since replaced it with a more suitable, but less elegant looking propeller. This prop was removed at 21.4 hours. It's a pity as it is really lovely. Comes with the spinner and front plate. And I'm throwing in a superfluous to me hub adaptor with one doover missing. So if you have a 2.27:1 gearbox or a mancave that needs jazzing up, pm me! Note: you will have to do your homework about whether this propeller suits your needs. Just in case I have trouble attaching pics, here's some links to pics of it installed on my Bushcat
  8. That was the point of that air duct. They had fitted a new induction system, presumably replacing the carby.
  9. Lycoming 0360. Not sure how you came up with Rotec πŸ˜„
  10. Yeah, I linked to a useful article, but its in the previous page. Here it is again https://hackaday.com/2025/12/10/failed-3d-printed-part-brings-down-small-plane/
  11. Not random at all. I wondered if there might have been a small engine fire
  12. Some good follow up info, from Hackaday, of all places! https://hackaday.com/2025/12/10/failed-3d-printed-part-brings-down-small-plane/
  13. Which is, of course the whole front end of my aircraft πŸ˜„
  14. Good point. I'm pretty sure I've seen fibreglass (GRP) shrouds etc in engine bays. They are combustible. But would probably burn slowly, could be why fibreglass is allowed?
  15. If you've seen how course something like a pla print is, you'd see the resin will permanently bond to it. But if course you can do the other way and lay up INSIDE the print.
  16. Agreed. You could actually lay up on it, and just let it become part of the structure.
  17. Yes, I actually mentioned earlier I had made a pla part and painted it. Then thought leaving it in the sun would dry it faster. Warped in less than an hour πŸ˜„ And now for ultimate thread drift, the part in question, a custom controller for the Sega mega drive pinball game, Dragons Fury. The eyes are the flippers, 'nose bone' is PAUSE/START and you rattle his skull for tilt ☺️ The base plate warped in the sun, but I managed to straighten it up enough with a hair dryer.
  18. It's a little puzzling, isn't it? There's a lot of skill designing that. It seems incongruous that the same person didn't take into account the heat range. I can think of two scenarios. Either the file was sent off to somewhere to print and they misunderstood the brief, or else maybe there was an engine fire or something that heated it up way beyond reasonable, with fire somehow extinguishing itself when it crashed. Although having just said that, with engine stopped you'd think the fire would be less likely to go out, not more πŸ€”
  19. There are of course different materials and methods. So maybe a 3d metal print would work. No idea what that would cost though. I've only used pla and abs. I left a pla print id painted out in the sun to dry the paint faster. It warped within an hour πŸ˜„
  20. Plane totalled, landing short of runway.Pilot only minor injuries. A good reminder I guess that it gets toasty under the hood! https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/c1w932vqye0o
  21. I doubt that any B 17 has done 92,000 hours though. And it wasn't pressurised. Obviously you'd still have to watch for things like corrosion of course but in the grand scheme of things there's a lot less to catastrophically go wrong.
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