skippydiesel

I learn something new every day - you can write a paper on toggle switches - who would of thunk?

50 minutes ago, rhtrudder said:

Fuel hose replacement due on my 914, any clues on which is the best 

I have always purchased Gates products, now available through Repco.

I have also chosen to over-specify and use fuel injection rated hose, as it has a slight temperature advantage and is less permeable, than the low pressure hose (which is still suitable & within specifications). The FI hose is a little more expensive, than the low pressure but in the scheme of things is only a few extra dollars.

After 5 years of use, the Gates hoses are still very flexible, with no sign of perishing, so I repurpose the old hose for my land based engines.

I compliment my FI hose by using FI clamps - purchase by the box they are quite price competitive with the common variety, which do not provide as even a clamping pressure. Note: use the correct ID hose for your application - clamps are for security not sealing.

My Repco has always been willing to "come to the party" on price - I assume they all will negotiate (you will be purchasing more than the usual rev head). 

You didn't ask but I also use Gates coolant hose (except for the odd shaped top one, which I purchase from B Flood) - in my application Holden Gemini radiator hoses fit with little modification required and one Gates joiner.

My oil hoses (an odd size 17mm ID) comes from B Flood as a single length and is cut to length as required - if you cut to maximum length that will fit, apply a smear of silicon grease to each "spigot" end you will be able to V the hose and slip it it position - by being max length they can not come off, even if a hose clamp somehow lets go.

One of the good things about Gates is you can look up all the specifications for compatibility, permiability, burst pressure, etc. You can also look up dimension and when you make your selection, note the part number, go along to Repco, quote number (s) and they will either have in stock or give you a price on an order in. If its an order in it may attract an additional Repco charge (be sure to ask)

WOW!!!!!!! - I dont think I will need to be reminded NOT to engage either RFguy or Kyle in any conversation that may involve electronics - just wait for the install instructions, when all has been sorted out.

I often make/do Hansen that have no discernible performance improvement but may assist with component longevity and to sum it all up I get that warm fuzzy feeling of having "done good" - this might be one of those.

More questions:

• Why do you have a fuse before and after the 22,000uF capacitor?
• Cant remember ever seeing a fuse on the + starting cable (battery to stater solenoid) of older/simpler cars - it would need to be a very high capacity - sugestions?
• So do I go  to JayCar and ask for a "TVS  diode - type 5KP16A or 5KP17A""  and use it to bridge between the positive + & negative - terminals on my 22,000uF capacitor ????
• Same as above regarding the "10 OHM 5W resistor in line between the battery & the 22,000uF capacitor ?

After I have done all this, what will I have done for my aircraft?

So do I go  to JayCar and ask for a "BidirectIioonal TVS 1.5KE3-CA or similar 30V Bidirectional TVS"  and use it to bridge between the positive + & negative - terminals on my starter solenoid ????

Don't know what happened above?? Tried to remove the faux pa but no deal.

Thanks Guy's all good suggestions, that I will follow up on. 

I am happy/comfortable with steam gauges for engine management, so am primarily looking for additional navigation, situational awareness & redundancy,  (with a little voice suggesting 2-3 axis  autopilot capability for the future might be a good idea.)

22 hours ago, M61A1 said:

I can only offer experience with the Skyview Classic, and it's terrific, but costs more than my whole aircraft.

I have an fitted in mine and I like it.

How long have you had the UltraEfis ? - any niggling problems? good points? bad points?

On 25/12/2020 at 5:33 PM, RFguy said:

well not that you know, or have checked. I would think it equally applies to all.

Anyway, this is a JABIRU forum. no talk of rotax here, thanks. please start another topic or PM

🙂 🙂

RF - I was not trying to subvert this elitist Jab thread 😁 just letting readers know that, seven years after purchasing my SSB RB16CL-B, the battery appears to be still taking a full charge (14.2 V) and delivering nice crisp engine staring. I dont know why this would be - can only assume its something to do with superior Rotax😏 technology.

(Star Trek starting to be a bit repetitive - would not dare make a comment on" wifey🤣")

17 hours ago, RFguy said:

OldK and Skippy

I will expand on your questions etc on this tomorrow. Star Trek wifey time.

  

Waiting????

19 minutes ago, eightyknots said:

Hi Skippy,

 

Have you considered getting an MGL brand EFIS?

Will consider all tat Forum members suggest and vouch for (ie you have experience of the product)

11 hours ago, M61A1 said:

Are you replacing your UltraEfis?

Possibly but not at this very moment - this is a vague plan forming in, what is left of, the brain

Have been looking at EFIS  recently.

Would like the Forums opinion on the merits/otherwise of what is out there.

Must be able to fit (or come close) into an existing instrument hole/space.

Dynon D10 and Garmin G5  are probably the most reputable examples but am willing to hear all opinions (particularly those who actually have firsthand experience)

47 minutes ago, Kenlsa said:

Skippy,  any battery that I can put in the Colt (sorry RF not a Jab) must be approved with an STC to make it legal.

We (The Forum) have had this debate off/on for years - In my opinion a battery conforming to the correct dimensions (will fit the cradle/box safely), able to store/deliver the rated starting power OR better,  is just like any other consumable that an aircraft may use.

So if you can use, any engine oil that meets the specification, any tyre, fuel, paint, spark plugs, filters,  etc etc - you do not need to conform to the original product the aircraft was supplied with.

If this be true and I believe it is,  then any battery, so conforming, can be fitted.

33 minutes ago, RFguy said:

Hi Skippy

Almost -CCA is OK

but...

the max charge rating of 5.7 amps is below what the alternator will try and punch in (17 amps) 

This may damage the delicate glass mat of the lightweight AGM.

 

 

 

Is that charge rate  a Jab thing? cause I have no problem with my Rotax.

1 hour ago, Kenlsa said:

Looking at weights for a rebuild, the EarthX (LifePO4) at 1.7kg beats my Colt lead battery at 12kg.

It comes with an STC but is spendy at $600 US. Still, I may have to install it if weight becomes a last minute fight.

 

The STC for a Hawker (Odyssey) will come in at 7kg.

 

I am updating the alternator and starter anyway so it has become an option 

 

Ken

Unlike RFGuy I am no electronics buff,however I do know you can purchase  sealed motorcycle battery that will easily meet your CCA needs that weighs 6.6Kg for fraction of your  $600 US (Au$800). Check out SSB PowerSport XR  Series Part No RB16CL-B (the one I use). If the configuration of this does not suit there are a host of others to be found on the SSB web site.

I still like and use  my WAC's - not sure how many pilots out the can still be bothered with them.

When I commit a prospective plan to my charts, it helps me visualise the whole flight, get it into perspective as it were.  The iPad is great but it just doesn't have the power to "transport" me.

One little problem - back in the day you could order your WAC's with a flexible matt plastic finish, that would allow the good old chinagraph pencil to take and be removed with an eraser and made the paper WAC more durable into the bargain - what ever happened to this service.?

3 hours ago, pmccarthy said:

All good, but remember being overweight is not a choice. I would be RAA tomorrow if my wife and I, luggage and fuel, would fit 600kg MTOW.

Fair comment Pm - be thankful that your wife will fly with you - I for one, am not so blessed.

4 hours ago, kgwilson said:

I think there are a lot of ex GA pilots now flying RAA aircraft. For some it was the difficulty and cost of getting the class 2 medical. For others like me it was a choice because I was getting older and thought that one day I may not pass. I am still heathy and reasonably fit & not overweight & reckon I'd still pass but I have no need to. If CASA had followed the rest of the English speaking world with the RPL as it was implemented in those places being a way to allow ageing GA pilots to continue to fly on a self declaration, 1 passenger, no night or IFR flying I probably would still have a current PPL.

 

As it is I don't have the need to fly into CTR when there are so many interesting places to go & things to see where there isn't any. I built my plane, do all my own maintenance & have transited CTR on occasions by request and being given permission. The whole GA/RA variable exemptions stuff is ridiculous & full of anomalies. E.g. Flying in CTR is illegal at 1 minute to 5pm and legal at 5 pm, Gliders are on the VH register etc.

I like you, Kgwilspn am a refugee from GA. In my case the cost of GA became prohibitive. The contributing passengers, friends & relo's ,wanting sight seeing tours of Sydney Basin & over their home, dried up.

Fortune came my way with a friend who introduced me to RAA and I havent looked back.

I fly for pleasure, so the potential carrying capacity, noise, vibration and frankly, boring performance of GA (mainly small Cessna's) and much higher cost, is a something I have no desire to go back too. 

I could use my PPL to enter CTA but have never actually needed to - so am a true believer in RAA - Rock ON!!

I have put my ATEC Zephyr 19-3360 up for sale - see classifieds.

I am no longer in the first flush of youth (an astonishing admission) and I have several other demanding  activities, the first of which is grandchildren, so with this in mind, I have been persuaded (by family) that rebuilding my damaged Zephyr, is not conducive to a harmonious family environment.

This is a great opportunity for someone with basic skills, to acquire, very cheaply, a quit astonishingly capable  aircraft with its 32 -120 knot flight envelope @ 8 - 18 L/h, (100 - 110 knot econamy cruise 13-14 l/h)

To minimise the "tyre kicker" enquiries, I am insisting on an inspection of the aircraft occur BEFOR negotiations commence.

6 hours ago, danny_galaga said:

@skippydieselI guess your VSI is calibrated in meters per second and your ASI in kilometres per hour 😄

 

 

Strange for sure - we, in Australian aviation, have this weirdly mixed metric/imperial measuring system - makes no sense at all and although we get used to it eventually, it makes for an unnecessary complication.

1 hour ago, RFguy said:

Sean you cannot see the damage to the TEF wire, either. There is a edge on the clamshell join .

 

Make no mistake . This is a very serious situation. Everyone needs to check their aircraft 

 

 

I agree 110%. Just musing/speculating on the possible cause/mechanism of the damage - not intending to minimise the seriousness of the issue - no one wants an in flight fire.

On 21/12/2020 at 5:47 PM, RFguy said:

On my J230D, there is a firewall penetration with no grommet.  I would always have a grommet, however read on ...

Now, this might be OK as the edges of the metal clamp  are all fairly clean and smooth and it is quite a deep long clamp, clamps over a vary long length and hence has a large surface area

 

BUT there are some sharp edges where to the two halves join . 

 

In my airplane, the EGT/CGT wires have gone through to the wire, through two lots of insulation.

AND

the unfused 10/12 AWG  TEF wire , direct to battery wires have lost quite a bit of their insulation !!! fire waiting to happen.

 

I rectified this before I flew it, however people may want to check it

I have pulled the wires back in the photo to show. You cannot see the loss of insulation on the battery wires, too hard to do with a phone camera.

This is on the STARBOARD side, IE co pilot.

 

Also there is a single photo from the OTHER side- pilot side.

 

 

RF the damage you have shown looks to me to have little to do with the firewall penetration/gland itself.

It looks like the one with obviously damaged wire/insulation and its close partner, have been subject to strong mechanical force, consistent with being pulled ridiculously hard.

The one with the peeled back insulation has been pulled against  a, none too sharp, edge,  its close  partner shows possible stretch damage.

2 hours ago, jackc said:

How do you find the Avmap Ultra?  Much work to install?

I found it easy to install. A bit of a pain in the a-- to align the compass. AH a little slow to respond to changes in aircraft attitude. In the scheme of things, not to costly. Useful slip ball.  Gives some interesting information but in general I can get the same information from a number of different "tools"

I purchased it to give my panel a slightly up market look , nice to have an AH in the centre, which it does quite nicely. Not sure that I would recommend one as a serious aviation tool.

3 hours ago, Jaba-who said:

Without being boring same answer as before. 

They are  not always short, ( but short doesn’t mean they can’t be convoluted and impossible to follow), they are loomed, they are not always obvious, and there are lots and lots of them. Your statement might be reasonable if it was an accurate description but it is just not correct.  

 

If one wire disconnects OK it won't be an issue but it is not  helpful especially when multiple wires are disconnected. 

 

Even following a spark plug lead that came off the distributor can be a one second job with a label on it and a half hour job with out it. 

 

Eg: Ok -let’s make that 2 leads pop off or are taken off the distributor

To correctly reconnect them   (:in a jabiru especially) will require removal of the ram air ducts so you can follow the lead all the way to the cylinder, [that may require removal of the bottom cowl in some aircraft ( I have seen a couple where the removal of the front cap screw holding the ram ducts needed the bottom cowl removed,] cutting all the zip ties  of all the wires in the loom to follow and ensure you have the right lead, then check again, then run the engine and if it there’s a problem recheck it all etc etc. 

 

or

 

simply pick up the dislocated ends, read the label and reinsert it onto the distributer, followed by repeat for the second lead. 

 

Same applies to 6 CHT leads, 6 EGTs, an oil pressure sender wire, a back up CHT sender wire, the multiple wires to the regulator, solenoids, master relay, Amp high and low shunt sender, fuel flow sensor wires, Radio wires that go directly to the battery, hard wired strobe light wires.

To say they are short and obvious is not a factual representation of the state of engine bay in many aircraft these days. 

 

 

 

 

Hi Jaba - like you appear to be doing, I can only speak from my own experience: 

The only time I have a need to label engine compartment wiring , is when I am removing/replacing the engine and even then much of the wiring is self explanatory (ie can only fit in one position). The labeling I use at this time need not be anything special, as it will be removed immediately  after first successful engine start up/system checks.

Behind the instrument panel and a few other places within the airframe; very different story, I have everything labeled, at point of origin and termination  & a few, in between.