Stopping CO ingress

[danny_galaga]

I can't remember where the hell I put my thread about stopping co ingress in my plane. But here's the latest. I put light open cell weather strip around the door edges. The doors on the Bushcat are not a brilliant fit so the gap varies a lot. Using 6mm open cell allows for a high tolerance. 

 

And it seems to have worked. The amount I can smell is a LOT less. Nev pointed out a lot of planes pull fumes up via the opening near the tail wheel. That would be my next point of attack. But the doors were a lot easier to do 😄

[Marty_d]

From Bunnings Aerospace?

[facthunter]

Any opening  anywhere will do for fumes. The pressure inside is always below the outside in an unpressurised Plane when it's flying.  With some effort, cost, wt and drag the exhaust May be extended enough to reduce it significantly. Also seal firewall and doors and have Cockpit  air vents open. Tired motors will ooze fumes. There's crankcases that have to  vent.. Nev

[danny_galaga]

1 hour ago, Marty_d said:

From Bunnings Aerospace?

Yes. Don’t have the packet here, but i THINK it’s this one. One roll for each door

 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/moroday-6-x-19mm-x-5m-white-econo-weatherseal-tape_p4061865

[skippydiesel]

" I put light open cell weather strip around the door edges"

 

If its the stuff from Bunnings Aerospace, you will be lucky to get much more than a season out of it.

 

Next time get closed cell - far more durable & won't hold moisture and retains it shape better.

 

Lots of suppliers but if close to a "Clark Rubber" they usually have a very good (but pricey) selection. You will need to know the width, depth & how long (they sell by the m).

😈

[BrendAn]

4 minutes ago, skippydiesel said:

" I put light open cell weather strip around the door edges"

 

If its the stuff from Bunnings Aerospace, you will be lucky to get much more than a season out of it.

 

Next time get closed cell - far more durable & won't hold moisture and retains it shape better.

 

Lots of suppliers but if close to a "Clark Rubber" they usually have a very good (but pricey) selection. You will need to know the width, depth & how long (they sell by the m).

😈

bunnings have expensive quality seal as well. ask for the submarine door seal or the space shuttle door seal for higher temp applications.

[danny_galaga]

4 hours ago, skippydiesel said:

" I put light open cell weather strip around the door edges"

 

If its the stuff from Bunnings Aerospace, you will be lucky to get much more than a season out of it.

 

Next time get closed cell - far more durable & won't hold moisture and retains it shape better.

 

Lots of suppliers but if close to a "Clark Rubber" they usually have a very good (but pricey) selection. You will need to know the width, depth & how long (they sell by the m).

😈

I deliberately used open cell because the gap varies a lot around the edge of the doors. With closed cell, the doors would be impossible to close. It's about $7 a roll. If I have to replace it once a year it's no big deal.

[skippydiesel]

12 hours ago, danny_galaga said:

I deliberately used open cell because the gap varies a lot around the edge of the doors. With closed cell, the doors would be impossible to close. It's about $7 a roll. If I have to replace it once a year it's no big deal.

I accept your assessment of the situaton however its quite diffrent from my experince of using closed cell, available in a wide range of thickness & width.😈

[danny_galaga]

1 hour ago, skippydiesel said:

I accept your assessment of the situaton however its quite diffrent from my experince of using closed cell, available in a wide range of thickness & width.😈

Have a look at the door. She's a wibbly wobbly sculpture 😄 . The gap varies from say 0mm to 10mm. Obviously over 6mm is still not sealed, but it is reduced. If I were to run 6mm closed cell, it would actually be impossible to close the door, since compressing 6mm closed cell down to 0mm is Schwarzenegger territory 

 

😇 

[facthunter]

 With Vastly differing gaps it may Pay to make them More equal with balsa pieces glued in place covered with thin canvas held there by two Pack resin, Use Plasticene to check the Gaps and then glue the rubber on when you are Happy. A lot of pressure in the Hinges and catch is not desirable. Nev

[danny_galaga]

25 minutes ago, facthunter said:

 With Vastly differing gaps it may Pay to make them More equal with balsa pieces glued in place covered with thin canvas held there by two Pack resin, Use Plasticene to check the Gaps and then glue the rubber on when you are Happy. A lot of pressure in the Hinges and catch is not desirable. Nev

Not a bad idea. The only thing is it took me X amount of effort to get 90% there, but that last 10% would probably take X² effort 😄

[facthunter]

Yeah, you have to do it FIRST. Just do one at a time. it will cut down noise too. Nev

[skippydiesel]

4 hours ago, danny_galaga said:

Have a look at the door. She's a wibbly wobbly sculpture 😄 . The gap varies from say 0mm to 10mm. Obviously over 6mm is still not sealed, but it is reduced. If I were to run 6mm closed cell, it would actually be impossible to close the door, since compressing 6mm closed cell down to 0mm is Schwarzenegger territory 

 

😇

You could use two lengths of closed cell same or diffrent thikness;

Use the most common thickness/gap fill and where the gap is wider put a length on the other side. eg 6mm all round on, say the airframe side and then targeted 6mm on the door where needed =12mm.

Alternately vary the thickness of the gap seal, as required.😈

[facthunter]

That would look like crap. . Nev

[danny_galaga]

2 hours ago, facthunter said:

That would look like crap. . Nev

My thoughts exactly. It would be ballz

[facthunter]

Poultice-like . Rough as Guts . Do it once and do it right. It 's Quieter. You can get some Horrible noises from badly fitting doors. Nev

[skippydiesel]

2 hours ago, danny_galaga said:

My thoughts exactly. It would be ballz

Are interested in performance/results or just asthetics?😈

[danny_galaga]

1 hour ago, skippydiesel said:

Are interested in performance/results or just asthetics?😈

I'm interested in getting 90% of the way there for a few minutes work. And also to not make it look like ass. If it looks really hokey I'll never have a problem with people feeling queezy, because they'll never board the plane 😄

 

😇 

[Moneybox]

53 minutes ago, danny_galaga said:

I'm interested in getting 90% of the way there for a few minutes work. And also to not make it look like ass. If it looks really hokey I'll never have a problem with people feeling queezy, because they'll never board the plane 😄

 

😇

Very neat job but if you want to improve it without doubling the rubber you could just lay a strip of more dense draft seal on the opposite panel. It might be just a simple straight strip of self adhesive rubber on the area with the larger gap. Motor Body suppliers are the best source I know of.

 

https://www.mcnaughtans.com.au/ecatalogue/rubbers/

 

[danny_galaga]

8 hours ago, Moneybox said:

Very neat job but if you want to improve it without doubling the rubber you could just lay a strip of more dense draft seal on the opposite panel. It might be just a simple straight strip of self adhesive rubber on the area with the larger gap. Motor Body suppliers are the best source I know of.

 

https://www.mcnaughtans.com.au/ecatalogue/rubbers/

 

Handy to know. But she's all good. I've achieved a big reduction already. Where I suspect it might be coming in on the door frame seems to have had a smaller gap to start anyway. If I want to continue, I think I'd look at how I could seal the tail wheel gap. Not easy of course because it needs to flex.

[skippydiesel]

10 hours ago, Moneybox said:

Very neat job but if you want to improve it without doubling the rubber you could just lay a strip of more dense draft seal on the opposite panel. It might be just a simple straight strip of self adhesive rubber on the area with the larger gap. Motor Body suppliers are the best source I know of.

 

https://www.mcnaughtans.com.au/ecatalogue/rubbers/

 

Me thinks you have just repeated my suggestion, in another way.

 

With the door closed, the "draft excluder" will be largely hidden - whats the aesthetic problem?

 

😈

Edited August 7 by skippydiesel

[BrendAn]

48 minutes ago, skippydiesel said:

Me thinks you have just repeated my suggestion, in another way.

 

With the door closed, the "draft excluder" will be largely hidden - whats the aesthetic problem?

 

😈

I can't see how gluing balsa wood strips on a fibreglass door would look any better.  At least weather strips can be easily removed or altered.  Just a thought. Not having a go at nev

Edited August 7 by BrendAn

[facthunter]

The bit's go on the Aircraft frame. Not as as strips but a scribed  shaped light weight  piece firmly fixed  to the frame. You can trim such a Piece to be the exact size and orientation needed to mate to a rubber on the fiberglass door.. No whistling noises better seal and more chance of having the door a good flush fit and no excess Load on the Hinges and catch and less likely to come open as it will close more predictable than one you have to Use force on..  Interior trim and beading will fit better also . If more strength is needed include some Marine Ply or fibreglass matt in the Balsa.. Nev

[BrendAn]

37 minutes ago, facthunter said:

The bit's go on the Aircraft frame. Not as as strips but a scribed  shaped light weight  piece firmly fixed  to the frame. You can trim such a Piece to be the exact size and orientation needed to mate to a rubber on the fiberglass door.. No whistling noises better seal and more chance of having the door a good flush fit and no excess Load on the Hinges and catch and less likely to come open as it will close more predictable than one you have to Use force on..  Interior trim and beading will fit better also . If more strength is needed include some Marine Ply or fibreglass matt in the Balsa.. Nev

Ok.   That would be a good fix

[Garfly]