SkyEcho 2 - ADSB light doesn't come on...

[skippydiesel]

8 hours ago, Kiwi said:

Yes, I get the same clicking sound in my Cherokee, but no interference in the Rans S6S or the Drifter. The funny thing is that if I touch the instrument panel above the intercom it goes away (until I move my hand).

This is with my Lightspeed headset, I haven't checked if I get the interference with the normal headsets.

 

Have you tried moving around the cockpit?😈

[Neil_S]

14 hours ago, Kiwi said:

 The funny thing is that if I touch the instrument panel above the intercom it goes away (until I move my hand).

 

 

Hi Kiwi,

 

This sounds like the old days when trying to get a better signal on a black and white TV by asking somebody to hold the aerial in a different spot. You'd get a really good picture - but if the person then put the aerial down at that spot the picture turned to crap again "Hey mum - just keep standing there holding the aerial!" LOL

 

Cheers,

Neil

[coljones]

On 12/11/2024 at 5:13 PM, kgwilson said:

USB PD stands for Universal serial bus power delivery. It has nothing to do with Apple or iphones. It is a universal standard that delivers 5 amps at varying voltage inputs with a maximum out put of up to 240 watts. Many low input devices will not communicate with PD chargers including the SE2.

 

QC3 is indeed a Qualcomm proprietry product with less output at about 36 watts. QC 4 & QC 5 are much faster & can charge at astonishing speeds like charging a mobile or tablet from 0 to 50% in 5 minutes.

 

 

"Universal" in IT/Telecoms is a bit like "World Series" in baseball. Just because Apple and the USA call it doesn't make it so.  MM/DD has the same sort of universality. 😇

[skippydiesel]

Just back from another fly -

• Found that Kiwis observations at correct.
• If I turn me head, can receive or block the clicks.
• Putting my hand up close to the SK2 also blocks the interference.
• Touching the instrument panel , not sure
• Turning off my noise cancelling has some effect but this could be background noise drowning the clicks.
•  I am going to try a foil shield next time round - I will try & place/ size it, so as not to block the SK2's function.

 

Seems odd that only you few respondents have come across this phenomena.😈

 

[Kiwi]

Started raining at home and had to stop mowing...

So sitting in the cherokee in the hangar with tablet on, SkyEcho on, no clicking.

 

Master and intercom on, clicking is there. 

 

Intercom off, no clicking.

 

Cheap headsets make no difference. 

 

Move the skyecho down the back of the plane, no clicking.

 

Definitely coming through the intercom. 

 

 

[Area-51]

2 hours ago, Kiwi said:

Started raining at home and had to stop mowing...

So sitting in the cherokee in the hangar with tablet on, SkyEcho on, no clicking.

 

Master and intercom on, clicking is there. 

 

Intercom off, no clicking.

 

Cheap headsets make no difference. 

 

Move the skyecho down the back of the plane, no clicking.

 

Definitely coming through the intercom. 

 

 

The clicking will likely be the intercom. I have a Flightcom and it clicks. I have read on other forums that PS intercoms have better filters and are better quality product; no clicking.

[skippydiesel]

I am running a Trigg transceiver/intercom, into David Clark, noise canceling, headset - annoying background clicking.

 

Othered than experimenting with location (limited options in my case) has anyone come up with a fix?

[Bosi72]

1 hour ago, skippydiesel said:

Othered than experimenting with location (limited options in my case) has anyone come up with a fix?

I suggest seeking professional help.    

 

However, if not available, you might want to try with RF Ferrite chokes. As mentioned, the troubleshooting takes time as wiring in every aircraft is different, and RF is "unpredictable". 

 

The ferrites can be of different material, sizes, hence effective on different frequencies. 

 

I would start from the headsets, wrap the cable that goes into the earcup and see if any better, then try at the intercom, put a ferrite around every cable/wire that goes in and out, including power, and see if that helps. Then try radio(s). 

 

The video below is one successful example, but I wouldn't call it "Easy way". 

 

Good luck !

 

 

[skippydiesel]

Hl Bosi72

 

Nice video and certainly something worth trying.

 

Small problem - The SK2 has no physical (wire) connection with any part .component in the aircraft😈

[Bosi72]

 

2 hours ago, skippydiesel said:

Small problem - The SK2 has no physical (wire) connection with any part .component in the aircraft😈

SE2 is a radio transmitter.

Any wire(s) in your aicraft can act as a receiving antenna.

The catch is to find which wire (or wires) are causing interference.

 

The video below is showing a demonstration of transmitting RF energy wirelessly.

 

ps: suggest talking to avionics guy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[kgwilson]

I have ferrite chokes on all radio cables at the radio and headset jacks etc and my SE2 does not interfere with the radio at all no matter where I put it. The chokes there will filter out interference from other electronic devices and electro magnetic sources so if you don't have these it is a very cheap and effective solution. They only cost $12.95 for a pack of 2 from Jaycar and clamp around the cable next to the radio or headset socket etc. You may even find your radio performs better after installation as an added bonus.

 

https://www.jaycar.com.au/u15-ferrite-voltage-spike-protectors-noise-suppressors-pack-of-2/p/LF1294

[skippydiesel]

2 hours ago, kgwilson said:

I have ferrite chokes on all radio cables at the radio and headset jacks etc and my SE2 does not interfere with the radio at all no matter where I put it. The chokes there will filter out interference from other electronic devices and electro magnetic sources so if you don't have these it is a very cheap and effective solution. They only cost $12.95 for a pack of 2 from Jaycar and clamp around the cable next to the radio or headset socket etc. You may even find your radio performs better after installation as an added bonus.

 

https://www.jaycar.com.au/u15-ferrite-voltage-spike-protectors-noise-suppressors-pack-of-2/p/LF1294

What made you decide/invest in ferrite chokes in the first instance?

I ask because my transceiver delivers very clear communication in in & out. It's only the introduction of the SE2 that has resulted in this annoying clicking.😈

[kgwilson]

Aviation frequencies are VHF & very prone to interference & these were recommended by the radio manufacturer as well as a number of publications on radio installation. I also installed a power filter. The Microair radio I have does not have a good reputation & some of this is due to poor installation techniques. Mine works very well and pulls in transmissions from great distances. I also tuned the antenna to the main CTAF frequency.

[skippydiesel]

Kgwilson, 

 

"I also tuned the antenna to the main CTAF frequency."

 

I have almost nil understanding of electronics/radio frequencies etc however I do have a SWR meter, from memory the instructions, for antenna tuning, say to set the transceiver to the middle of the frequency band.

 

I guess the theory is that the antenna will have acceptable receive/transmit capacity over the whole range.

[kgwilson]

I set mine close to 126.7 as that is the most common CTAF frequency. It receives all other frequencies and of course area have much more powerful transmitters so no problem there

[coljones]

15 minutes ago, kgwilson said:

I set mine close to 126.7 as that is the most common CTAF frequency. It receives all other frequencies and of course area have much more powerful transmitters so no problem there

Have a link to a wavelength table.

https://www.cumulus-soaring.com/files/antenna_lengths.pdf

 

 121.5Mhz might be a better frequency as it is the emergency frequency and the 1/4 wave (24.3" 617mm) is only 1" (25.4mm) longer than 126.7 (23.31“ 592mm)

 

[skippydiesel]

I am aware that the instructions for charging SE2's is via 240V transformer.

 

Just wondering if I turn my SE2 off & plug it into ship power ( USB) will it :

• Charge satisfactorily
• Do no damage?

😈

[Underwood]

Skyecho is rather odd in its charging requirements.
There is a very full thread on Charging in the Flyer Forum here: https://forums.flyer.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=119153&hilit=sky+echo+Charging

It's long but don't skip this post in particular: https://forums.flyer.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=1864496#p1864496

[skippydiesel]

Thanks Underwood,

 

It took some reading and I probably only understood a fraction of what was being discussed back & forth.

 

What I took away:

• Avoid charging my SE2 in the cockpit.
• If I must charge in cockpit,  do so with SE2 OFF and then only from  a USB-A source delivering more than 1 Amp, using the correct USB-A to C charge cable.

The reason for my question is simple - I intend to tour in my Sonex. Opportunities to charge my SE2 from a 240V source may be limited.

 

My Sonex is fitted with a Guardian Avionics, Panels mounted,  Dual USB-A, 2.7 amps/5 VDC Output / For 9 - 48 VDC Systems - with my limited understanding, this should be able to charge the SE2,  should no 240V system be available.😈

[skippydiesel]

Further:

• It would seem some people do charge their SE2 from aircraft power.
• Its not clear to me that they do this (or not), while the unit is being used ie transmit/receive.
• I suspect my SE2 will not operate while being charged - circuit protection?
• My UCB-A charge ports do not remain on, when the aircraft is shut down , so there is no way to charge the SE2 overnight.
• If my Guardian Avionics delivers what it claims (above) it should have enough power to charge the SE2 
• I have written to Guardian Avionics asking - do both USB A outlets deliver  2.7 amps/5 VDC Output OR is the 2.7 amps/5VDC the total delivery  - as seem to be common, with USA supplier's,  these days  - no response.

Helpful comments welcome😈

 

[danny_galaga]

Haven't read all of this thread, and maybe I've actually posted this before on THIS thread but when there were some doubts about charging of the SE2, I just emailed them and got the info from the horses mouth. In essence they said just use any quality charger, they made it seem a little more critical than it is to discourage people using $2 temu crap and blowing up the device. I usually use the charger from my lenovo tablet, This article should serve as a great eye opener to why you shouldn't fool yourself into thinking that somehow your $2 piece of shit is from the same factory as a properly made charger just because it LOOKS the same:

 

https://www.righto.com/2012/10/a-dozen-usb-chargers-in-lab-apple-is.html

 

Incidentally, on the strength of this article I bought a HP touch pad charger to use for my C64.

Edited September 30 by danny_galaga

[skippydiesel]

Hi Danny,

 

Good technical article - unfortunately does not address 12V chargers.

 

All my 240V chargers seem to "do the job" . Either supplied with the device or purchased separately after considerable research.

 

My interest is in chargers in the aircraft.

 

I have several devices in my aircraft SE2, iPad mini, back up Garmin GPS, that would benefit from a reliable in aircraft charger.

• The Garmin has its own charger ,  plugged into a dedicated "cigarette" style plug - all good.
• The SE2 is now connected to a Guardian aircraft USB-A supply. (Check out Guardian Avionics for crazy cost https://guardianavionics.com/)
• The iPad used to be connected to another Guardian charger (located on the back of the iPad dock/holder) that no longer seem to be compatible with the iPad.  It wont charge the iPad but will charge a phone - go figure! Have tried "known good" cable to no avail.

I will not be purchasing another Guardian product - now looking for a reliable 12 V car style charger.

 

I know getting a good, reliable charger is a bit of a lottery but would like to reduce the odds. For instance - should I try for a charger that delivers more amps than required ?  Is a charger with "Quick Charge 3"  worthy of consideration? Is a charger delivering 2.4 amps "better" than one delivering 2.1 amps? (By better I mean generating less heat, possibly more reliable as system not operating near max)

 

😈

 

 

 

[danny_galaga]

True. But it does give you a feel for what's happening inside these sorts of devices. The same principle applies - you get what you pay for. I believe though the main problem you could have with 12v to 5v switch mode is a dirty voltage. Which was probably covered in this thread. So a risk of interference, but a much lower risk of killing your device if the charger is cheap and nasty. I was so anxious about interference I bought a linear supply kit to put in my plane. I didn't end up using it. I mean, the se2 runs a lot longer than you can fly. I'm just using the battery. No daggy cables hanging around either 🙂

 

Edit, I see you are looking at other devices. Always aim for a higher charge current than you require. If the charger is ok, but not brilliant and you are cutting it close to the bone then you are more likely to have voltage sag etc, which you can see the effects in that article I posted. USB is a funny world, there seems to be limits I guess due to wire size in the cable. If I could, if I have a 2 amp device I'd want a charger that can do double that to be sure. In any case, the higher the better. One of the advantages of switch mode is that if it's not putting out much, it's not creating much excess heat in proportion. For instance, If you've gone nuts and somehow found a good quality 10 amp USB charger (I don't know that there's such a thing) then it won't be using much more energy than a 2.4amp charger if charging the same device. I imagine in fact this 10 amp charger will likely have a longer life because proportionally it's not working as hard. 

 

If it's a linear charger then yes it's just turning excess voltage into heat. Smooth and stable output, but hot and wasteful. I love them ☺️

Edited October 1 by danny_galaga

[skippydiesel]

Thanks for the advice D_G.

 

Have ordered the: 

• Campervan - QC3, USB-A 7.2 amp, USB-C 20.0 amp $48.00

The above unit arrived & was installed today. Have tested on the ground - seems to deliver ie charges iPad. Will follow up in a few hours with a report.

Flying will have to wait until strong westerly winds abate - they cause nasty clear air/no cloud, rotor/turbulence in our area.😈