Tell us about your last flight

[BurnieM]

5 hours ago, Moneybox said:

I had a 4.5hr flight home yesterday in the Zenith Zodiac 601hd. Now I know what you're trying to fix with the rudder trim, I had to keep constant pressure on the RH side of the stick.

 

.....

 

 

What ? Are you building a fleet ?

 

Edited Monday at 10:44 AM by BurnieM

[Moneybox]

1 hour ago, BurnieM said:

 

What ? Are you building a fleet ?

 

Yeah, Mrs M has been on at me to get the Polaris microlite down from hanging in the shed but where do you park them all? I desperately need a hangar. This one is 19-**** that allows me to work with it. The Sportstar is a 24 and very difficult to work with. I can't fit the AP I want, I can't fit the instruments I want and the parts are a rip-off.

 

I wanted to change the throttle cable from the ratchet/locking type to a friction type. I did the right thing and asked Evektor, no problem it can be changed so they supplied the part numbers of the two little grommets and the cable. I ordered it through the Australian dealer in SA and accepted the ridiculous price of $1480. Well that was until I received the cable, they supplied a locally sourced McFarlane cable that I could buy from Aircraft Spruce for less than half the price. I felt like going back to Evektor with a complaint but I might need the dealer one day for something important. I returned the cable for credit.

 

This plane has the same type of throttle cable but it seems to work much better than the difficult to operate throttle control in the Sportstar. I've only left the ground and landed it three times but I had no trouble at all with the throttle.

[danny_galaga]

9 hours ago, Moneybox said:

Yeah, Mrs M has been on at me to get the Polaris microlite down from hanging in the shed but where do you park them all? I desperately need a hangar. This one is 19-**** that allows me to work with it. The Sportstar is a 24 and very difficult to work with. I can't fit the AP I want, I can't fit the instruments I want and the parts are a rip-off.

 

I wanted to change the throttle cable from the ratchet/locking type to a friction type. I did the right thing and asked Evektor, no problem it can be changed so they supplied the part numbers of the two little grommets and the cable. I ordered it through the Australian dealer in SA and accepted the ridiculous price of $1480. Well that was until I received the cable, they supplied a locally sourced McFarlane cable that I could buy from Aircraft Spruce for less than half the price. I felt like going back to Evektor with a complaint but I might need the dealer one day for something important. I returned the cable for credit.

 

This plane has the same type of throttle cable but it seems to work much better than the difficult to operate throttle control in the Sportstar. I've only left the ground and landed it three times but I had no trouble at all with the throttle.

Did you build the Polaris?

[T510]

14 hours ago, facthunter said:

That's an opinion. Proper soldering makes a better connection.  Nev

The FAA would disagree with you on that

 

The FAA strongly prefers crimping over soldering for wire terminations and repairs in aircraft, as outlined in advisory circular AC 43.13-1B. Crimping is deemed superior in aviation due to higher mechanical strength, better vibration resistance, and long-term reliability compared to solder, which can create brittle spots

[facthunter]

I DID say Proper. Where the solder ends can make a point where flexing happens and copper work Hardens  with time and anywhere it flex's. Crimps can corrode. Solder in sheer is  strong. ie in a good fitting sheath.  Use resin fluxes and tin the Join fully.  It's a lot slower than Crimping and requires a bit of skill..Nev

[facthunter]

I've seen crimps that pull out relatively easily and you can easily get  resistance in the Join, which will result in HEAT and Lower voltage when the current is high. Nev

[danny_galaga]

48 minutes ago, facthunter said:

I've seen crimps that pull out relatively easily and you can easily get  resistance in the Join, which will result in HEAT and Lower voltage when the current is high. Nev

I ended up soldering most of my connectors. The main danger with solder, as you mentioned is the wire is stiff right after the connector and could crack or break. But if you run your wiring so that there is little to no movement, it should be fine. I feel safer with solder.

[facthunter]

Heat shrinking a short length of cover stops that, Crimping springs back a little after you clamp it. Like a Cold rivet..  Nev

[onetrack]

Cleaning a soldered joint after doing the soldering is important to prevent flux residue from causing corrosion. Flux residue is acidic and draws in moisture, thus starting the corrosion bugbear.

It's especially important when low voltage and low amperage levels are involved. Brushing the soldered joint in clean water and then applying an evaporative solvent works for me.

Then installing heat shrink finishes the job, and produces a professional-looking finish that seals the joint fully. 

[danny_galaga]

11 minutes ago, onetrack said:

Cleaning a soldered joint after doing the soldering is important to prevent flux residue from causing corrosion. Flux residue is acidic and draws in moisture, thus starting the corrosion bugbear.

It's especially important when low voltage and low amperage levels are involved. Brushing the soldered joint in clean water and then applying an evaporative solvent works for me.

Then installing heat shrink finishes the job, and produces a professional-looking finish that seals the joint fully. 

If you are using resin flux, it's really not necessary. 

[facthunter]

I never use Liquid Fluxes  (Zinc chloride) with Wire joins . Use resin cored or electric use resin paste fluxes. Any time you uses Bakers or zinc chloride wash the finished job with water and detergent and treat it to prevent corrosion.  It s hard to" tin" steel. unless it's tin, zinc or copper plated  first.  Nev

Edited Tuesday at 01:54 AM by facthunter
more content.

[Blueadventures]

15 hours ago, BrendAn said:

Haven't you seen an xair flying knife edge before 

No, not as PIC from the cockpit. 🙃

[facthunter]

You have to stop the Horizon going with you. Nev

[Flightrite]

I crimp every join I can, as does the aerospace industry in general. Better fatigue management, no wicking of solder to create a fatigue point👍 
I have numerous dedicated crimpers, that’s the secret with proper aircraft grade wire👍

[T510]

6 minutes ago, Flightrite said:

I crimp every join I can, as does the aerospace industry in general. Better fatigue management, no wicking of solder to create a fatigue point👍 
I have numerous dedicated crimpers, that’s the secret with proper aircraft grade wire👍

I'm with you, crimp everything I can. Quality crimping tools make all the difference

[facthunter]

You are free to do what you think is best. The solder doesn't have to run up the wire if you do it properly. Any crimp backs off a bit from where you crimped it to. Same as if you want to go to a Right angle you have to go a bit past it and it will spring back a bit.. If you straighten a bar you have to go a bit past straight to get it there.. Nev

[T510]

1 hour ago, facthunter said:

You are free to do what you think is best. The solder doesn't have to run up the wire if you do it properly. Any crimp backs off a bit from where you crimped it to. Same as if you want to go to a Right angle you have to go a bit past it and it will spring back a bit.. If you straighten a bar you have to go a bit past straight to get it there.. Nev

I will happily continue to use the best method as described in the FAA advisory circular AC 43.13-1B -  Acceptable methods, techniques and practices.

 

Given it has been refined over the years and is considered the "bible" for aircraft technicians I am pretty confident that they know the best methods.

 

 

[Moneybox]

I go with facthunter on this. I've spent many years working on automotive, mostly 4WD mining and tourist vehicles and whenever there's been a high resistance connector it's been a faulty crimp. I've never seen a soldered wire break and I'm talking thousands of wires over decades on Australian bush tracks. I had a serious warranty issue with a 6.6L Isuzu powered GM built Hummer where they strapped a massive harness to the chassis and the engine. Engine torque ripped several wires apart and took many long hours of diagnosis to find. This was a fault designed by experts in automotive technology. Many manuals and procedures are written by people who've never held a spanner in their hand.

 

In this case I soldered the end of the wires into the spade terminal with the secondary crimp holding the insulated portion of the wire. If it's going to flex it won't be anywhere near the solder. I don't trust crimped connectors in wiring exposed to the weather.

[Moneybox]

7 hours ago, danny_galaga said:

Did you build the Polaris?

No I bought the SS framed Polaris some years after it did some sort of a promotion lifting off from the Swan river here in Perth. It was mounted on a dingy, I only bought it with the trike. It has an 11.5m wingspan, Rotax 503 mounted upside down and a 60" three blade porpeller. If I get around to reviving it I'd fit the electric starter. There's a 503 on this site that I should buy but the finance manager/wife reckons I don't need it.

[facthunter]

Stranded Copper wire where Moisture gets near it will turn green Called verdigris That would be just great at the crimp.  Nev

[T510]

24 minutes ago, Moneybox said:

I go with facthunter on this. I've spent many years working on automotive, mostly 4WD mining and tourist vehicles and whenever there's been a high resistance connector it's been a faulty crimp. I've never seen a soldered wire break and I'm talking thousands of wires over decades on Australian bush tracks. I had a serious warranty issue with a 6.6L Isuzu powered GM built Hummer where they strapped a massive harness to the chassis and the engine. Engine torque ripped several wires apart and took many long hours of diagnosis to find. This was a fault designed by experts in automotive technology. Many manuals and procedures are written by people who've never held a spanner in their hand.

 

In this case I soldered the end of the wires into the spade terminal with the secondary crimp holding the insulated portion of the wire. If it's going to flex it won't be anywhere near the solder. I don't trust crimped connectors in wiring exposed to the weather.

Well you had better let Textron, Piper, Boeing, Airbus and all the other aircraft manufacturers know that they are assembling their wiring looms the wrong way. Don't forget to tell the FAA and all the military suppliers at the same time. 

They obviously haven't got the experience you and Nev have with building reliable wiring looms

[facthunter]

Don't be %@#!$@ ridiculous. Don't stifle Discussion Here. FAA is Not GOD in ALL things. They didn't pick up crook Boeings.. We've given you sound reasons and you've had your say.  Your Sarcasm is not needed.  Not ALL crimps are good. We CAN spend the extra time to get a better job IF we feel like it.. There's nothing worse than a "hot "Join in an electrical circuit How much electrical circuitry have you wired BTW.? Have you seen Verdigris?    Nev

[T510]

I'm not stifling discussion, I am simply pointing out that the aerospace industry standard is to crimp wires not solder them. As are military, automotive and NASA standards.

 

Industry standards including IEC 60352-2, SAE/USCAR-21, and IPC/WHMA-A-620 mandate crimped connections for automotive and aerospace applications where a 15-year service life under extreme conditions is required.

 

I have seen verdigris, I have manufactured wiring looms when working for a subsidiary of Textron. I have also built looms for my own projects in many fields. 

 

Just because you don't agree it does not mean I am being "%@#!$@ ridiculous".

 

You have given reasons you believe to be sound, I have responded with standards based on scientific research. 

 

 

 

 

[Blueadventures]

2 hours ago, T510 said:

I'm not stifling discussion, I am simply pointing out that the aerospace industry standard is to crimp wires not solder them. As are military, automotive and NASA standards.

 

Industry standards including IEC 60352-2, SAE/USCAR-21, and IPC/WHMA-A-620 mandate crimped connections for automotive and aerospace applications where a 15-year service life under extreme conditions is required.

 

I have seen verdigris, I have manufactured wiring looms when working for a subsidiary of Textron. I have also built looms for my own projects in many fields. 

 

Just because you don't agree it does not mean I am being "%@#!$@ ridiculous".

 

You have given reasons you believe to be sound, I have responded with standards based on scientific research. 

 

 

 

 

Aviation crip methods and tools (in spec) are reliable; no so auto motive single crips, the four point crimping like example molex are reliable though.

[danny_galaga]

6 hours ago, Moneybox said:

No I bought the SS framed Polaris some years after it did some sort of a promotion lifting off from the Swan river here in Perth. It was mounted on a dingy, I only bought it with the trike. It has an 11.5m wingspan, Rotax 503 mounted upside down and a 60" three blade porpeller. If I get around to reviving it I'd fit the electric starter. There's a 503 on this site that I should buy but the finance manager/wife reckons I don't need it.

I ask because if you didn't build it, then you are in the same boat as 24 rego.