skippydiesel

Skippydiesel, yes I should have mentioned I was always planning GA, need it to fly out of CTR here in Launceston and the extra carrying capacity.

Oh well ! another pilot lost to RAA.

Bye the way it is likely that you (PPL?) can fly an RAA registered aircraft into/out of CTR but that still doesn't address the "payload".

 

Despite my loyalty to RAA & Rotax engines - I have always lusted after RV's, particularly the 4's & 8's. Along similar lines the Mustang II, very efficient very nice. Going back to Rotax (914) power, the Europa might just get you over the line.

 

 

Tasmag - Are you going to register this aircraft (to be) under RAA or GA?

 

I ask because under current RAA you are limited to max 600 kg TO for most aircraft (a few a little less and B parachute equipped a little more). True RAA may be aspiring to higher TO limits, but that how things stand at the moment.

 

For load carrying capacity, whats most important is the difference between empty weight and max TO weight.

 

I believe most, if not all, of the aircraft that may be approved for 4 seats under GA, have very poor load/range capacity, when registered as a two seat RAA aircraft .

 

I have carried, on several occassions, equipent/supplies for a 3 day/2 night camp for myself, better 1/2, and full fuel. True we are both verticaly chanllanged (good things come in small packages) so this does help. So even a two seater (Zephyr - well south of 300 kg empty) has the space/volume for all your gear.

 

Unfortunately bigger people (x2), who want to go touring/camping, may find that almost all RAA aircraft will suffer from diminished range, when fuel is left off to stay within TO weight limits.

 

I regret saying this - but to get the speed, carrying capacity and range you are looking for may force you into GA

 

 

RJW - I think tail wind landings/takeoffs should be taught by a competent instructor. You appear to have the theory but execution/practice is another thing.

 

Do not exceed aircraft manufacturers tail wind component figures.

 

Tail wind landings are essentially short field landing/takeoffs.

 

Avoid tail wind landing/take off at high aircraft weights.

 

On second thoughts I have deleted all my advice.

 

Discuss & practice with your instructor.

 

 

All great advice.

 

After 25 years of flying, I still have "foot in mouth" moments.

 

In my experience, what counts is that communication is established and message indented, is received. Of course, best if professionally delivered, in recognised format (still striving for consistency on this) but in most cases other pilots & ATC very understanding of amateurs.

 

Never hesitate to ask "say again" or correct your earlier miss speak - failure to do so may lead to an incident that could have been avoided by better understanding.

 

 

Just remember to land into the little end & out the big end.

 

Seriously though I think most of us struggle from time to time with the wind sock. I miss seeing it ( go round again), make a 180 error (very light or variable wind)

 

To add difficulty some airfields want you to land on a particular runway direction even if there is a small tail wind. I know of one, that I use fairly often, that requests landings to the south (up hill) and take off to the north (down hill) in all but a strong wind. I never know what I should do as my aircraft has no problem landing into wind, down hill and taking off into wind, up hill. I usually follow the local "customs" even though I would prefer to stick to into wind takeoff/landings.

 

Some airfields have a preferred runway when the sock shows no indication or a 90 degree cross wind. You wont know this unless you have local knowledge read ERSA (if listed) or listen to the circuit frequency.

 

I usually monitor the circuit frequency from 20 + miles out in the hope of determining the "active" runway (I do my inbound/on decent call at 10 Nm, so begin monitoring well before this). When in doubt, I may make a call asking for the active.

 

As previously mentioned aircraft heading/track/ground speed are good indicators but be careful of this as it is not uncommon for wind direction/speed aloft to differ to that close to the ground.

 

Smoke is one of my favourite indicators, but again can lead you astray if not close to the destination landing ground.

 

Patriots who fly flags are always helpful.

 

Birds usually take off into wind but can be hard to see.

 

Unless you are a commercial service (time/money imperative) or there is a dire emergency (need to pee or worse) do not make straight in approach to landings. Just because its legal does not make it right for amateur pilots. Far better to overfly (min 500 ft above circuit height) and check out the situation (sock, traffic on ground/air, etc) before descending to circuit height. Good idea to make a overhead call with intentions.

 

My last bit of advise is - learn to make down wind landings, you never know when this may be your only option.

 

 

KISS - I use my check list on the ground my memory in the air (as back up I have check list close at hand if needed). I trained on complex aircraft to retract & constant speed, but fly a simple fixed unercart, fixed prop aircraft. Down wind checks are HATCHES, HARNESS, BOOST PUMP ON, BRAKE OFF, SUFFICIENT FUEL FOR GO ROUND, ENGINE INDICATIONS (I don't even have carbi heat) and I ask my passenger not to talk until we come to a stop/engine off on the ground.

 

My message is - fit the check lists to the aircraft & keep your eyes outside the cockpit as much as possible.

 

 

I have always used both "crab" & "slip into wind" - Crab on final, slip as I come over the fence to touch down. Works for me.

 

 

Yep Lycoming (0320 & the rest) make a wonderfully reliable old fashioned donk. Can't argue with the reliability or the horrific acquisition and the terrifying on-going running cost.

 

Just because the Yanks seem to dominate the aviation world shouldn't make us blind to more efficient, quieter, less polluting engines and air-frames from other parts of the world. A Pipistral Virus SW will equal or better your RV4 in most parameters and do it all on the "smell of an oily rag" - as will a host of other modern small aircraft mostly powered by Rotax 912 & 4's.

 

You must indeed be a wealthy man.

 

I am but a poor boy and a Rotax (which halls my ATEC Zephy up @ 1,000 + ft/min & gets me off the ground in 100m with full fuel, on grass) will do me just fine.

 

 

Hi allI am currently trying to decide which craft to build early in the new year (Hopefully)

 

I was previously set on a J430 for the carrying capacity and range but the closure of CAMIT and the introduction of a new 3300 next year had me looking around at alternatives.

 

One that I found was the SP4000 from Lightwing, not many flying so difficult to get some real world performance figures. I have spoken to one builder from the forum but he has a much bigger engine than I would like.

 

I am really after something economical to fly - 120Kt at 25lph is my yardstick at the moment.

 

Had initially thought that an o320 (160hp) would be ok in the airframe, but maybe it needs a little more poke to get of the ground in a reasonable distance?

 

The 0320 would probably use a little less than 35lph at 75%, but was thinking that at 55% it might still pull the SP4000 along at 120.

 

The site list take off distance as 600m, but another source (Youtube) from ALW states that it needs 800m with 180hp.

 

Anyone have any knowledge/thoughts of the airframe or any thoughts on it or engine choices.

 

Mike

Check out the ATEC Zephyr (advanced kit) much lower stall (35 knots) & faster cruise than a Jab, will actually do -

 

• 100 knots @ under 13 LPH (1 pilot) with a 912 ULS on 95 RON.
   
   
  
• If you want to burn 18+ LPH you will easily do 120 knots.
   
   
  
• PLUS PLUS - the 912 only requires an oil change every 100 hours
   
   
  

 

 

This aircraft is quite competitively priced with a Jab, but if you want to spend more $$$ you could speck it up with a 912IS for even better performance/economy.

 

Much much better performance (132 knots) would be the new ATEC Fayeta NG (but its not a kit)

 

 

For my 5 year hose replacement on my Savannah XL I need to find the 25mm radiator inlet and outlet hose with the wire coil for stiffness. 1m and 500mm. The list of places I've tried in Australia is getting ridiculously long - automotive, agricultural, bearing and hose specialists, rubber specialists, performance parts... Car radiator hose is too soft. Normal suction hose doesn't handle the temperature or the coolant chemicals. I'm told it has to be EPDM rubber but no-one can help. Any suggestions?

From my long years playing with all things automotive, I find it extremely unlikely that the coolant hose internal coil has anything to do with "stiffness" - in fact stiffness is usually the opposite of what you want, which is a flexible, non vibration transmitting (between engine &radiator) hose. The fitting of an internal coil is usually to prevent the hose from collapsing. This should not be a problem with a standard Rotax cooling system. Reason being the Rotax system is a non sealed, expansion cap/bottle, coolant return system that should, if working correctly, NOT create the internal low pressure environment which caused some older automotive engines to experience collapsing of the lower radiator hose.

 

If your application requires very long radiator hoses then anti collapse springs may be appropriate.

 

Rotax (Bert Flood) does not supply radiator hoses because every 912 installation requires different hose lengths and profiles/bends.

 

I run a 912ULS (just passed 750hrs) in my Zephyr. I use good quality automotive hoses (without internal coil) that from experience/research I have found fit my application. They are definitely not "too soft" and are fully compatible with the coolants Rotax recommends. My local REPCO store was good enough to lend me a couple of their radiator hose catalogues. I used these to select/order hoses with the appropriate profile/bends in the correct ID (make sure they are long enough and then trim to your needs). I have ended up with a single hose (perfect fit) on the short right side and two hoses, joined by off the shelf metal joiner, on the long left. The left hose, due to length, is supported near mid way.

 

My only other advice would be to -

 

• make your hose trim cuts straight, leaving smooth edges
   
   
  
• use good quality hose clamps (yes there is good and bad) correctly tightened
   
   
  
• shield your hoses where they come close to the exhaust system - I use, where appropriate, automotive exhaust wrap and builders soft aluminium sheet safety wired in place.
   
   
  
• check recent hose installations FREQUENTLY (1hr, 5 hrs, 20 hrs and then every 50 hrs) for security and leaks.
   
   
  

 

 

I have experienced no problems with my set up (changed every 5 years in line with Rotax recommendations)

 

 

Just for anyones info in case it helps someone else in the future.We were getting a few fuel and oil pressure alarms recently. The pressure would dive and then come back up. We tested fuel flows and pumps extensively, checked all lines, checked oil systems. Checked ground terminals. Nothing found.

 

Battery which is supposed to last 15 years (lol) was getting tired on cold mornings, so we decided to replace it. Wires are soldered to battery. While pulling back heat shrink on terminal and wire the - wire came off. It definitely wasn't loose or unattached, but it was significantly weaker than the + attachment.

 

We proceeded to install new battery. Aircraft starts perfect and all alarms have ceased.

 

Me thinks perhaps the solder had begun to crack and the slightly poor termination was causing the occasional alarms. Strangely they only occurred during late warmups or climb out. or possibly the battery was actually dying and causing the alarms.

Further to Scott - I second all of your comments and add:

 

• The best that I have ever got out of a 12 volt battery in a high vibration environment like a vehicle/mobile plant/tractor/boat/aircraft is about 8 years, with 3-5 being the norm. I replace my batteries at the slightest hint of slow cranking performance. To do otherwise is to unnecessarily stress the starter motor & associated wiring.
   
   
  
• From my automotive experience, I have installed an additional (to existing system) 8 amp earth/ground wire to my composite aircraft's electrical circuit, that links all earth/negative terminal points (including 3 on engine) together. I have yet to experience a dud ground on my aircraft.
   
   
  
• Make sure all connections are "good" (have nil resistance/continuity and are tight) and are protected from corrosion by using electrical grease.
   
   
  
• Support wiring against movement/vibration.
   
   
  

 

 

 

 

Im 24 rego so got to stick with the original 8ah

Improvements in lead/acid battery performance has been progressing very rapidly over the last few years. I believe this has been driven my the automotive industries need to meet ever higher pollution standards and the electrical load that the explosion in electronic/computerisation of vehicles (including motorbikes) has demanded. Lighter vehicles tend to burn less fuel/ produce less pollution than heavy ones. Fuel saving Stop/Start technology places a huge demand on a battery. In the past, if you wanted higher/better battery performance you fitted a bigger heavier battery (space permitting). The automotive industries conundrum is, they need more powerful batteries to meet the electrical demand and at the same time the battery must be lighter than before. The battery industry/technology is meeting these requirements.

 

The aircraft industry (particularly us at the light and very light end) can & should take advantage of these improvements SUBJECT to weight & balance considerations

 

I find it hard to believe that you are restricted to a battery that will give you marginal cranking performance when much better batteries are readily available. I suggest you contact the manufacturer seeking authorisation to use a modern battery with higher CCA and lighter weight.

 

NOTE: - In the above comment I am not endorsing any of the lithium type batteries

 

 

If you have a rotax 912ULS you can kill the sprag clutch by not having enough grunt when starting. My battery is a 18 or 19ah I cnt remeber the model exactly but I just replaced my original which was 16ah. For one or two kg more I would much rather have the grunt and capacity there.

Funny that you mentioned the sprag clutch - I am the third owner of my Zephyr/912 ULS (so the previous owners probably used the minimum recommended CCA battery that was fitted in the aircraft at my purchase) and about 100 hrs ago (@600+hrs) I had to replace the sprag clutch. I am just on my second battery, each has had progressively higher CCA and lighter weight, in the same external dimensions.

 

 

Wow 19AH, why so huge???Dump 10AH and go about 2.8kg

Firstly : I am a big believer in plenty of cranking amps. Low amps places damaging stress/elevated temperatures on the starting system. My 912 (100hp) starts from cold without any hesitation but on a warm day can have "vapour lock" which can necessitate additional seconds of fast crank to overcome.

Second : This battery is dimensionaly within my aircrafts battery cradle space.

 

Third : Is much lighter & powerful than the original, so I have a win win situation while still maintaining acceptable W&B

 

 

I am using a motorcycle SSB Power Sport XR Series battery Part Number RB16CL-B

 

CCA: 385

 

AMP Hours: 19

 

Net Weight: 6.60KG

 

Supplied by "All Purpose Batteries" (02) 46483111 - www.ssbpowersport.com.au

 

Check out the web site they have a vast range of battery configuratioins

 

 

OKAY!!! here is my report on DYNAMIC PROP BALANCING -

 

Just had my 912 prop dynamically balanced by Superair @ Armidale Airport, NSW Ph (02) 67725055 - very friendly & professional service. Despite being a bit rushed due to approaching weather concerns, job done . Incredible difference at take off power and cruise RPM 4800-5200 - almost turbine smooth. I am very impressed, definite convert, wish I had done it years ago. Not only does the engine/prop feel better the whole aircraft seems to be just that much "sweeter". There should be flow on benefits for improved component life and possibly reduced fatigue for the pilot.

 

 

Am I the only player who appreciates the beauty & incredible performance of the DH Hornet ?

 

 

Who's for it & why?

 

Who's against it & why?

 

Give me all your glowing success stories and dirty little failures.

 

I have painstakingly static balanced my prop.

 

Made multiple pitch adjustments & test flights, to arrive at an acceptable (to me) propeller performance for my take off / landing environment.

 

In my obsessive pursuit of perfection I am now wonder about dynamic balancing as the next level of worthwhile/dodgy investment.

 

Anybody care to recommend a NSW dynamic prop balancing service provider?

 

Just thought I would throw this little hand grenade into the discussion pit & see what jumps out.

 

 

What aircraft do you have and what are your current tyres and rim sizes?

Hi Scott,

Are you directing this question to anyone in particular?

 

 

If the home built or even kit built plane is Not designed to fly in restricted airspace, why should the pilot have to pass the same test as the RAA pilot certificate or higher, just to buzz around the airfield.Similar to all the gliders lining up for their tow, not flying to & from different airports, except when in competition, then they could end up in another country. LoL

spacesailor

I doubt that any aircraft is "not designed to fly in restricted airspace" this sort of ruling is merely a legal "throw the baby out with the bathwater" type catch all, favoured by our risk averse government bureaucrats.

 

Certainly all aircraft have physical limitations - speed, range, altitude, etc but restricted airspace is not one of them.

 

I take your point about pilot training but favour a continued high standard and hoped for expanded/greater flight privileges in recognition of this.

 

 

Hi I will be fitting a either a mini andriod or mini ipad and I dont't know what else I'll need to run these.We have a mini samsung at home and last week I downloaded the free to evaluate RWY and this requires a wifi receiver.

 

What do I need to install the mini into the cockpit ? I have a usb power source, does it need the wifi device; or is this just required for getting updates and any other data like weather etc?

 

Thanks

 

Mike

Hi Mike - My low wing aircraft is short on panel space.

 

I have an i Pad Mini & a dedicated aviation (hand held) "Garmi" GPS. Both mounted on "RAM Mounts, Double Socket Arms & 1" ball" (hard mounted/fixed). The Mini is in " RAM TAB - Tite" bracket/cradle suitable for a Mini in a thick protective case.

 

On very sunny days I have twice experienced Mini over temp shutdowns in flight. To improve Mini ventilation/cooling I have cut additional ventilation holes in the back of the" Tite" cradle and in the back of the Mini's protective case.

 

Other than over temp problem, I am very happy with the "RAM Mount" systems which can be adjusted for any eye level or even away from sun glare, to improve screen readability.

 

As far as on board power goes, I have two twin (x 4) automotive sockets from JayCar mounted vertically, out of sight, behind the instrument panel. I have a fifth socket, on the front of the panel, accessible for in flight charging of devises (phoned, hand held radio, etc). Each socket has a fuse appropriate for the expected current draw and the whole system is powered through a re settable circuit breaker.

 

All of my devises came supplied with car style charging plugs & extension cables, which I leave semi permanently in place.

 

System has worked well for over two years.

 

 

Have been fantasising about a scale version of a HD Hornet for a million years - Anyone know where I can find one?

 

 

"When will they ever learn". "When will they ever learn" ------ DRONES & SAM's are the now & the future for fighter & surveillance aircraft. Why hall/lift a life support system & a pilot when you can replace all of that with fuel, equipment & or ordnance.

 

 

Me thinks this conversation might have strayed, just a a tad.

 

 

Nev ; No concerns regarding possible differences in expansion/contraction between very hot tail pipe and relatively cool bracket ? (this was why I was thinking along the lines of a spring (or two)