1 minute ago, danny_galaga said:

TRue, but still not really an item I need to put in my list of substitutes for OEM stuff. There's no specific call for that tape on my aircraft

Aha! - "....no specific call...." this may be so however if here are gaps between surface, you are likely to experience greater wind noise, rain, dust & insect ingress. A wee bit o tape can make all of this less likely , and barely add more than a few grams to your aircraft weight (even the GA crowd are known to use it).

33 minutes ago, danny_galaga said:

That's more of a toolbox thing, rather than replacing specific parts on my plane.

The tape they provide is sort of similar to electrical insulating tape (tool box) but must have different adhesive, is UV resistant, durable and comes in  a few diffrent widths. I guess competitive glider pilots apply/remove each time they assemble/disassemble their aircraft but for me the tape stayed in place for up to 3 years, so I would argue not so much a tools box item.

You might like to add Gap Tape from https://wingsandwheels.com/gap-seal-tape.html.

Its white comes in a range of widths is both durable and easy to remove (most of the glue comes away even after being in place for several years) - Not cheap but does "the job" very well.

I envisage a composite fairing that "smooths" the air flow at the leading edge of the wing root and then extends back  (above/below) to the flap. At the flap, the lower fairing would taper off to end jut before the flap max down position.  On top the fairing would continue past the flap and taper back into the fuselage to again smooth the air flow off the trailing edge of the flap.

No point in going to all this trouble for anything less than a 5 knot increase in speed, for a given engine setting/fuel flow.

14 hours ago, trailer said:

Along the lines of my post earlier, can anyone dirct traffic to an aussie supplier?

Reference: Australian Supplier of Gap Seal/ Gap Tape

Have no up-to-date advise re purpose made stuff - I purchased my Gap Tape from good old Uncle Sam (I think it was https://wingsandwheels.com/gap-seal-tape.html)  and my Mylar Gap Seals from a cooperative Sydney print shop (they had to cut it to width for me).

I see that Bunnings Aerospace has a wide selection of tapes - at least one of which is clear (also white) and comes in about 50 mm width - may worth looking at/giving a try.

21 minutes ago, Old Koreelah said:

Skip my installation is pretty rough, but covers the rubber. What else should we do?

Not saying don't do (especially if it makes you/pilot feel safer) just questioning its effectiveness -  Think about it - fire resistant sleeve, over most (not all) of "rubber" hose, subjected to fuel or oil fire. If your realy lucky, may give you an additional few seconds, to make that emergency landing but likelihood is that fire melts hose,- most vulnerable at connections but the heat will melt hose inside fire sleeve - releasing more fuel/oil - fire melts electrical wires/components & starts to melt alloys - how long  before disaster ???? my uninformed guess- within minutes. Much will depend on how quickly pilot realises he/she has a problem and isolates fuel/electrical system (cant do much for the oil) hopefully cutting off the source of the fire.

Prevention is by far the best "cure" - pay attention to hose routing (allow adequate flex/length to accommodate engine movement), prevent heating  from exhaust system, abrasion/rubbing. Make sure all connections (including lectrical) are as safe as you can make them. Use quality hose & suitable clamps. Inspect engine compartment at every opportunity and address oil/fuel leaks/weeps and loose electrical connections, before next flight.

I have orange fire sleeve on my new Sonex - came with it. I wont be removing it  and in a bit under 5 years will probably reuse what I can BUT had no such enhancement on my last aircraft and was just as "happy".

Are you using this product as  a "gap seal" ?

If so check out: 

43 minutes ago, Marty_d said:

Damn, it didn't show the most interesting thing from band camp!

I've already bought fire sleeve (ebay) to slow fire not looks.  Bunnings Aerospace sell stainless zip ties that look similar to the band camps.

Yes!  Bunnings Aerospace sells the metal zip/cable ties - I have/ am using them but I find that a double wrap safety wire clamps tighter (if that's what you want) and at a fraction of the price. True, not as smart looking.

Speculation: If you/I have an engine fire, I suspect that the outcome is likely to be dire, no matter what precautions we may take -  stating the obvious - we fly very light weight aircraft,  use "rubber" fuel/oil hoses,  they wont put up with much heat and the proximity of fuel (in or overhead fuselage) doesn't help. Not against using fire sleeves just wonder about their effectiveness (especially the way most are installed)

On 15/03/2023 at 10:17 AM, old man emu said:

I think that creating a database of equivalent parts is a great idea if you own something that is a bit rare.

 

I............................

AND/OR  the OM parts are just a tad pricy.

Simple question; - Why don't Sonex aircraft  (& many other metal home built aircraft) have wing root fairings?

AND

Would correctly designed wing root fairings, make any positive difference to handling/performance (speed)?

AND

An invitation, to anyone who has made & installed their own wing root fairings, to post photos and comment on changes to their aircrafts handling/performance

1 hour ago, danny_galaga said:

I've done a bit more snooping. Looks like BAND CLAMPS are the go 

 

 

Double wrap safety wire will be just as effective at a fraction of the cost/weight.

Before you head down the "fire sleeve" rout, ask yourself why you want to install them???

Seems to me the possible reasons might be:

• Slow the impact of fire - more time to land
• Heat insulation - reduce the chances of fuel vaporisation
• Abrasion/rubbing control
• Aesthetics - all the mates have it, looks professional (as in certified aircraft)

Then you might ask again how effective is the fire sleeve in addressing each point???

Fire protection

Sure it will retard/slow the effects of an engine fire, when correctly installed. I have never seen a correctly installed fire sleeve on RAA aircraft . What I see is unlikely to give much additional protection in the event of an engine fire (Note: I did not say no protection).

Heat Insulation

Yep! Definitely reduces the impact of radiant heat  but at a cost well above what the recreational pilot could make for themselves using automotive/plumbing materials.

Abrasion/rubbing control

As above and or using preloved (or new) hose sections, strategically placed.

Aesthetics

We all have aesthetic standards that we like to implement - personal choice

10 hours ago, danny_galaga said:

Like I already mentioned, the nut and bolt shop didn't sell exhaust nuts. Full stop. But the exhaust shop down the road from them got me some 🙂. 

You've done a sales job on yourself but if it makes you feel good - go for it😁

1 hour ago, danny_galaga said:

It's going on my list of spare parts 🙂

Danny! Danny !- get them from the nut & bolt people - probably pay $3 for the set of 8

18 hours ago, Blueadventures said:

Just following Rotax service instructions for same period and no problems. 

Top marks for so doing - you are allowed to go "the extra mile"  - as long as it doesn't result in a problem.

11 hours ago, Ian said:

There's no requirement for IFR, IFR is required for class A airspace which is

• Above FL245 outside radar coverage
• Above FL180 within radar coverageplace in a very small aircraft

So the opportunity to expand your horizons is simply limited by oxygen and your aircraft.

 

The chart below is an example of a really good resource provided to the flying community.

https://www.casa.gov.au/australian-airspace-structure

 

Thanks Ian -viewed the CASA chart - no actual ruling on VFR remining below 10,000ft. I was sure my training (back around 1990's) had a "rule" against  going over 10K.

I have been up at this altitude on a small number of occasions - trying to stay above turbulence - its an uncomfortable place, in a very small aircraft, that seems to shrink around you, to virtually nothing.  Movement /engine noise almost ceases  and mortality seems very very close. 

2 hours ago, Blueadventures said:

Skip lube only goes on the ball joints of muffler (100 hrly).  Never on header pipe flange to head or the stud nuts that hold the header plates at the attachment to the heads.

Why not?

- I have been doing this for the last 10-12 years - works a treat - no problems - eases all the alignments and ensures non galling removal of exhaust nuts.

Whats not to like?

I have always assembled my exhaust system using the Rotax recommended anti seize - liberal applicator on all joints & studs. Goes together/lines up perfectly and the nuts never seize/gall the studs.

2 hours ago, Blueadventures said:

From memory they are a copper vw exhaust nut, and need to get the 12mm spanner size as some are 13mm spanner fit and need the smaller size to fit as some close to header pipe.  May be incorrect of the spanner sizes, but you can get two sizes and need the smaller.  Cheers

I don't think they are copper Blue - neither my old 2000 912ULS or my 2019 ULS use copper nuts. They may be an alloy of something but they look like plain steel - There are at least 3 types - could only find two pics:

29 minutes ago, Ian said:

..................................................................................................................................................................................................................

Hi Ian,

Not being "the sharpest tool in the shed" , I ask the following:

I fly a Sonex/Rotax 912ULS - how can I find the most efficient touring altitude for my aircraft (accepting this will change with temperature). Efficiency, in this case, takes into account such human weaknesses as bladder capacity,  the need to get to a destination (that has a comfy bed/food & drink) within  my lifetime?

I have always accepted 6-7000ft as being the nominal efficient cruise altitude for the Rotax 912 ULS - would you agree?

You can get these heat tolerant  lock nuts from any good nut/bolt supplier 

As I understand it; In Australia, recreational pilots are overwhelmingly VFR and are limited to 10,000ft ceiling.  Contemplating flight above his level or in marginal weather, is either a fun academic debate or a declaration of intent to join the IFR crowd.

I am sure the challenge of obtaining an IFR rating is a worthy one, however it comes at significant cost (in training, maintaining & operating IFR rated aircraft). 

In my mind there are three reasons why very few Australian recreational pilots go for the IFR rating;

• The financial hurdle is a big one, as is the continued maintenance of the rating - if you are not being payed to fly IFR, whats the point?
• Australia is usually  blessed by great (VFR) flying weather - how often will a rec pilot actually need (as apposed to want) to file IFR?
• Recreational pilots can always decide to fly another day - no pressure to fly in marginal weather

Thought I would get an erly/quick flight in this am before heat/turbulence got going. About 18 C on ground.

TO about 08:00 - Climb Out - all good - Sydney Basin fogged in,  off to the easy - WHAT! hot ait coming through vent, quick check of instruments/look outside no sign of fire. Continued climb out to 4000ft  - OAT 30C oil starting to get a bit hot - return to base.

Weather has been a bit gusty of late - who knows an unexpected gust might just be to blame