Sierra 100 Kit Build Underway

#61
Thanks
I have trouble getting them to work at all on one side and poor on the other. Garry thinks its the pedal angle. But I'm not sure, I thinks it's at the callipers. I need to go over them. Did you change the rudder pedals?
 

kgwilson

Well-Known Member
#62
I haven't done the hydraulics yet but I have set the rudder pedals so they are vertical when the rudder is straight & there is no pressure on the master cylinders. It is essential to get the pedal geometry right. To get the required 450 psi to achieve the rated torque of the brake pad on the disc you need a minimum of 2.5 to 1 mechanical advantage. This is explained in the Matco Technical Service Bulletin. If you have Matco WE51L brakes I have a pdf file of the TSB I can send you. Most manuals etc are available on the Matco website anyway.

Also make sure that the callipers are floating freely. If the torque on the axle bolts which hold the brake plate on is different for each bolt, the moveable brake shoe socket head cap screws can jam in the brake plate bushing. This might mean it is hard to apply the brake & when it is applied it won't release.

Kevin
 
#63
Thanks Kevin it does sound like the callipers are not floating as you say. I'll look into that next cheers
Did you set the rudder pedals and master cylinders to the ply floor?
 

kgwilson

Well-Known Member
#64
Thanks Kevin it does sound like the callipers are not floating as you say. I'll look into that next cheers
Did you set the rudder pedals and master cylinders to the ply floor?
Yes I did. I took some photos of Garry's installations & did pretty much the same.
 

Garry Morgan

Morgan range of aircraft
#65
Hi Josh,
I tried to ring you about your problem today,is the peddle sponge or does it go hard when pressure is applied? when bleding from the bottom to the top, you need to tap the peddle to get the air out of the cylinder, we worked on a break for 6 weeks to get it right because of air in the cyl.
 
#66
No mate, it's not spongy, same as it was when you used it. It must be at the calipers. I'll look at it when I get it going again
 

kgwilson

Well-Known Member
#67
I have just realised I have not posted anything on my build progress since May. After getting the brakes and axles done & cutting a hole for the forward hatch I made a frame from some 1.6mm angle & cut out the door from some spare 025 thou sheet & used a bit of lightweight continuous hinge & riveted the assembly to the frame. I will use some camlock screws to hold it shut.

The next thing was to make to wing spars. This required tapering the upper and lower aluminium angles & cutting & fitting the spar webbing, doubler plates, mounting plates & spacers. There was lots of sanding down to 600g to make sure there were no scratches across the spar angles & then etch priming everything before assembly. All solid 5/32 rivets are used for the spar & I didn't have an air hammer or a 5/32 rivet snap fitting. While pondering the option of manually riveting hundreds of rivets I was in Aldi one day & they had an air hammer there for $11.99. It looked as good as any other I'd seen & a snap fitting from Aircraft Spruce was pretty cheap so that was it. I checked out some youtube videos of solid riveting & set some practice rivets up & it was easy. I found that good strong pressure on the riveter & dolly are essential but now understand why solid rivets are much stronger than welds.

I had to get the fuselage back out from around the side of the house & cut the main spar & drag spar holes before fitting the spars to set the dihedral. As I am building everything in half a double garage the only flattish area to set it up was the footpath in front of my house. This required levelling everything with a string line & level a making some wood supports for the tips of the spars. Then it was just a matter of clamping the spars in place & riveting the spar location angles to the steel central frame. When I had that right I clecoed the root ribs in place & checked the drag spar location & was very happy that without any adjustment at all I had the drag spar locations for each wing less than 1mm different & the trailing edges of the root ribs were exactly lined up with the bottom of the fuselage as they should be. Next will be the rest of the ribs, installation of the drag spar & setting the washout before installing the D box leading edge sheet.

[/ATTACH] IMG127.jpg IMG128.jpg IMG131.jpg IMG138.jpg
 

kgwilson

Well-Known Member
#68
Well I have the left hand wing ready for the D-box skin. After fitting all the ribs, drilling holes for the drag spar, fitting that & clamping everything down I then levelled the leading edge with a water level & set the washout at the tip. Once that was all clamped up it was just a simple matter of glassing the drag spar to the ribs. Then I bent up & bolted the drag strut in place with the steel sleeve inserted. I always knew it but once done the strength of this wing is quite apparent & I am a long way from completion. The washout still needs to be re-done when the wing is fully skinned as there are all sorts of other goodies to be installed before then.
 

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kgwilson

Well-Known Member
#69
The D-box is now riveted in place on both wings using csk rivets which required dimpling all holes in the sheet & countersinking all the holes in the main spar. I am now installing the 2 wing tanks. I will install outboard quick release fuel connectors at the root rib & run the fuel line through a L/R/Off selector to an electric transfer pump to pump fuel into the main tank. Total fuel capacity is around 170 litres.

Some progress pics of the wing including setting the washout, rivet detail & about to pull the D-box skin on.

IMG182.jpg IMG183.jpg IMG186.jpg
 

Virago

Well-Known Member
#70
Hi Kevin, I never cease to admire your workmanship. Your setting a high standard to which I am trying real hard to attain.
John.
 

kgwilson

Well-Known Member
#71
Hi Kevin, I never cease to admire your workmanship. Your setting a high standard to which I am trying real hard to attain.
John.
Hi John,

How is your build progressing? I will be taking mine up to the aerodrome after New Year to fit the wings, ailerons & flaps, engine & everything else. I've managed to buy in to a hangar quite cheaply, well its more like a garage with wing extensions but it keeps the weather & prying eyes off everything.

Kevin
 

Virago

Well-Known Member
#72
Hi Kevin, I am still working on the fuselage. It is at a stage where I could skin the sides (the bottom skin is on) but I am presently fitting wiring looms and other fiddly bits while I have easy access. I have also done the mounting brackets for autopilot pitch and roll servos. I have done the instrument panel layout and have cut all the required holes. When I work out how to post images on this site I'll do so. Keep up the good work mate!
John.
 

kgwilson

Well-Known Member
#73
When I work out how to post images on this site I'll do so.
John.
Hi John,

It is very simple. Just click on the "Upload a File" button when you are creating a post. It is next to the "Post Reply" button on the bottom left of the frame when creating a post. This then brings up one of the folders on your PC in a pop up window. You can then click on the down arrow and go to the folder your photos are in & then just click on the photo & it will import it into the post.

The new software automatically reduces the file size if it is a large file so you don't have to edit it like before. The first thing is probably to figure out where your photo files are. I know that a lot of people just use a photo application & don't have any idea where the directories (folders) are located. If you can work that out then it will all fall in to place. A folder called "My Pictures" under "Documents" or "My Documents" is usually a good place to start. If all else fails find a kid & ask him to show you. Most of them know how to do everything on a PC these days.
 

kgwilson

Well-Known Member
#74
Well I have finally finished both wings ready for fitting. Getting the fuel tanks in was a mission & then getting cables etc around them was interesting but it all worked out well in the end. I made up some templates to make sure I got the angle for the flap & aileron brackets right.

The plan calls for the rear skins to be installed as 2 pieces but Garry said some builders had successfully installed them as a 1 piece. I cut the right top one out as one piece and laid it on the wing & it looked fine & seemed to sit perfectly on the ribs. I then proceeded to bend the tabs 90 deg at the front to provide rigidity along the rivet line to the D-box with cutouts for ribs & drag strut & reduced to 10mm over the top of the tank. Trial fitted & full of confidence I started riveting it on. I finished & decided to admire my handywork only to be horrified that one panel over the fuel tank had gone concave. How could I have been so stupid? Did I have enough material to fix it? I gave up, had a beer & tried to figure out how to fix it. Well it had to come off, I found that there was plenty of spare sheet.

The problem was a combination of the twist in the wing due to the 18mm of washout set at the tip & the fact that when I'd glassed the centre rib I'd cut the hole in for the fuel tank, somehow the rib was now 3mm lower in the centre than the ribs on either side. Fixed that easily & re-did it all again, this time clecoing it first.

Turned the wing over & glassed the ply doublers for the Flap/aileron brackets & then installed the wing walk after setting a bend in the ply to conform to the curve of the wing top surface.

The bottom was easier as it was almost flat with only holes having to be cut for cable exits & tabs being trimmed. Excluding the fuel tank the right wing took 42 hours, the left took 36, the difference being no stuff ups on the left and experience.

Next step, wing fitting, ailerons & flaps. I am now shifting everything into the hanger so my wife will finally get the garage space back for her car.

Wing progress Pics attached

IMG273.jpg IMG251.jpg IMG265.jpg IMG268.jpg IMG270.jpg
 

kgwilson

Well-Known Member
#76
Its a while since I posted anything. I have completed the ailerons and flaps and installed the hinges on them but these will not be installed on the wings until I have the aircraft fully assembled & the wings set to the correct dihedral & the main bolts installed.

I've been busy with other things in March so not much was achieved although I ordered the engine and have arranged for everything to get to the airfield. The engine was delivered today & the fuselage & wings should be there tomorrow so the process of assembly and all the important and fiddly bits begins.

Just to prove it is underway attached are pics of the flaps & ailerons & the trailer packed & ready to go. IMG321.jpg IMG301.jpg IMG303.jpg
 
#77
Its a while since I posted anything. I have completed the ailerons and flaps and installed the hinges on them but these will not be installed on the wings until I have the aircraft fully assembled & the wings set to the correct dihedral & the main bolts installed.

I've been busy with other things in March so not much was achieved although I ordered the engine and have arranged for everything to get to the airfield. The engine was delivered today & the fuselage & wings should be there tomorrow so the process of assembly and all the important and fiddly bits begins.

Just to prove it is underway attached are pics of the flaps & ailerons & the trailer packed & ready to go. View attachment 21420 View attachment 21421 View attachment 21422
Looking good Kevin ... how would you rate the degree of build difficulty and overall quality of the kit?
 

kgwilson

Well-Known Member
#78
Looking good Kevin ... how would you rate the degree of build difficulty and overall quality of the kit?
The kit is all good quality 6061 T6 Aluminium, American sheet, all AN aircraft nuts & bolts etc. Can't compare to other kits as I haven't built any thing else. Its not like a Savannah kit with CNC machined bits & pre-drilled rivet holes. There are a few preformed bits but mostly you bend, cut, drill & shape everything. The fibreglass mouldings are good & just need trimming & finishing. I picked my kit up & it took about 3 days to work out what was what. If you have some engineering knowledge & can follow the plans & the manual, plus photos & the construction video, build difficulty is not too bad. Garry or Tim Morgan are always available for advice when you get stuck so after sales service is ongoing.
 

kgwilson

Well-Known Member
#80
It seems to have taken forever but I have finally got the wings on and fitted the main bolts, locating pins and drag spar bolts. Then I took them off again as I need to build a 100 mm high ramp to get the aircraft into the T Hangar or re-model the hangar into a full size one. I plan to extend the hangar but finishing the build is priority 1.

I have installed the engine mount and managed to get the engine installed yesterday. It was a bit fiddly but with a borrowed engine hoist it all worked out well. Next I'll get all the wiring, battery, cables & fuel lines, airbox, oil cooler & other cooling bits done, install the centre tank and forward deck, instrument panel & instruments & then I might build a ramp or re-build the hangar. I forgot to take a photo after I'd bolted the wings in place so this is one with the supports before levelling etc in the big hangar on the left.
 

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